Exploring Alcântara: A Journey Through History and Culture

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Alcântara, located in the state of Maranhão, Brazil, is a city rich in history and culture, offering a charming tourist destination.

The streets of Alcântara, just 22 kilometres from São Luís do Maranhão, take tourists on a journey through history.

They are lined with ruins and houses that document the heyday and decline of the city, whose birth dates back to the beginning of the 17th century.

Alcântara no Maranhão
Alcântara in Maranhão

In the following centuries, Alcântara grew thanks to farming, above all of sugar cane and then cotton, supported by slave labour – the massive presence of African descendants is a legacy of that era.

At the beginning of the 19th century, Alcântara was the third most important city in the region, behind only Belém and São Luís.

As with São Luís, the end of the slavery model contributed to its decline; unlike the capital, however, many of its buildings turned into ruins.

From its centuries of splendour, a collection of more than 300 buildings remains, which in 1948 earned it the status of a national heritage site.

The placidity of the old town contrasts with the fact that, since 1980, it has been home to a rocket launch base, 7 kilometres from the centre.

Visits to the site take place on Tuesdays from São Luís, by appointment only with the State Tourism Office.

Alcântara lacks good hotels and accredited guides, so it’s worth a day trip for those staying in São Luís.

The best way to reach it from the capital is to take a speedboat from the waterway terminal: although it’s on the mainland, it can take up to two hours by car – on a road with very poor conditions – compared to an hour and fifteen minutes by boat.

The boats leave at 7am and 9am and return around 5pm, depending on the tide conditions.

Videos – Alcântara Tourist Attractions in Maranhão

Alcântara no Maranhão

ALCÂNTARA IN MARANHÃO

1. TOURIST POINTS

  1. HISTORIC MUSEUM
  2. IPHAN HISTORICAL HOUSE
  3. GYRES OF ALCÂNTARA
  4. PELOURINHO
  5. FESTA DO DIVINO ESPÍRITO SANTO
  6. beaches and nature

Alcântara was once one of the richest cities in Maranhão between the 18th and 19th centuries. To visit this historic stronghold, you need to take a boat trip. The tours leave from the Praia Grande neighbourhood, in the historical centre of São Luís.

The city’s main attractions are the vestiges of past times, such as the ruins of the Palácio Negro slave market and the town hall building, which housed a public jail in the 18th century.

Other attractions are: Praça do Pelourinho, the Historical Museum and the ruins of the Igreja Matriz de São Matias, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, where there are the remains of two palaces built by rival families to receive Emperor Dom Pedro II, and the local beaches.

1. HISTORICAL MUSEUM

This blue and white tiled townhouse almost had the honour of hosting Dom Pedro II.

When it was announced that the emperor was coming to Alcântara, the Viveiros family, who lived in the house, began to prepare to host him; the same happened with the Ferreira family, who lived on the other side of the Matriz square.

With the proclamation of the Republic, the visit was cancelled. What remains in the old Viveiros residence, which has been used as a Historical Museum since 1977, is an iron bed that was used by the emperor.

It is one of the highlights of the house where the jurist Clóvis Beviláqua lived. His desk, paintings, old photos of the city, jewellery from the church of São Matias and a collection of hollow wood saints complete the collection. Pça. da Matriz , s/n, Historic Centre.

2. IPHAN HISTORICAL HOUSE

Its collection includes English and Portuguese objects dating from the period between the 17th and 19th centuries. A beautiful collection of tiles, paintings, furniture and porcelain are the main attractions. Pça. da Matriz, 7, Historic Centre.

3. CHURCHES OF ALCANTARA

Alcântara’s postcard shows the ruins of a church – São Matias (Pça da Matriz, Historic Centre). There are reports that a chapel dedicated to the saint was already built on the site in 1662.

The church itself began to be built in 1648, but was never completed and ceased to be used in 1884.

As for the church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo (lgo. Do Carmo, r. Grande, Historic Centre), which dates from 1665 and whose interior was restored in 2000, the high altar, sacristy, pulpit, tribune and balconies are striking for their exuberant rococo style.

The main nave houses ancient tombs and Portuguese tiles.

In the church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos (lgo. do Rosário, r. Dr Silva Maia, Caravelas), the high altar stands out.

As is the case throughout Brazil, in Maranhão too this is the saint of devotion for blacks; even today it is in the churchyard that the festival in honour of São Benedito – another black saint – takes place, celebrated on the first full moon of August.

4. PELOURINHO

When the news that slavery had been abolished reached Alcântara, the pillory, which stood in front of the church of São Matias in the main square, was hammered down – and disappeared.

PELOURINHO DE ALCÂNTARA
PELOURINHO DE ALCÂNTARA

It wasn’t until 1948 that it returned to the site, rediscovered by a team from the Rondon Project who were working in the city when it was listed.

Made of stone, this cylindrical column, almost 5 metres high and 40 centimetres in diameter, is today a symbol of a time that has passed, but will not be erased – like all history.

5. FEAST OF THE DIVINE HOLY SPIRIT

Of Portuguese origin, the celebration of the Divine Holy Spirit arrived in Maranhão in the 17th century, brought by Azoreans. Today, it lasts for a fortnight in May (the date is movable) and mobilises the entire population, especially those of African descent.

The festival, one of the most significant in Brazil, begins on the Wednesday before Pentecost Sunday, when the 10-metre-long Mastro do Divino (Mast of the Divine) is carried from the port to the Matriz square, where it will remain for the duration of the festivities.

The flag of the Divine is placed at the top of the mast. On what is known as Ascension Thursday, a colourful and lively procession, made up of mestre-sala, caixeiras, bandeirinhas and an orchestra, makes its way to the Casa do Divino, the residence of the emperor or empress – the characters alternate every year – who joins the group, accompanying it on the walk to the Carmo church where mass is said and litanies are sung.

There, the sovereign is crowned and a white dove, symbolising peace, is released. The procession then returns to the Casa do Divino where the entourage is served the offerings: glasses of liquor, cups of chocolate, cakes and the traditional doce de espécie, made by Alcântara’s bakers, who keep the recipe a secret.

The festival continues with the participation of various characters: on Saturday and Sunday, the “royal butler” receives the court and the players at home; the following week, the “low butlers” do the same.

On Friday, several oxen decorated with flowers travel around the city before being killed on Saturday morning, when the emperor or empress and the butlers distribute alms.

On Sunday, after a large mass and lunch at the sovereign’s house, the emperor or empress for the next festival is elected.

6. BEACHES AND NATURE

  • Itatinga Beach: A quiet beach, perfect for relaxing and enjoying the natural beauty.
  • Curururupu Extractive Reserve: A protected area that offers opportunities for ecotourism and wildlife watching.

2. HISTORY

We can’t pinpoint the date Alcântara was founded, but what is certain is that in 1612 there was a cluster of villages of which it was part under the name of Tapuitapera (land of the Indians).

With the arrival of the expedition of Daniel de La Touche, lord of La Lavadière, and the constant infiltration of the indigenous tribes by the French, friendly relations were established between the Indians and the French. The latter built a chapel on the site.

After the expulsion of the French, Portuguese rule was established and the importance of the village was not diminished. Between 1616 and 1618, Portuguese colonisation began on the site with a small prison that the Indians destroyed years later.

The whole area – including the Indians who lived there – became the property of Matias de Albuquerque. A garrison was set up there, which was destroyed during an Indian revolt, and in 1621, due to the economic and strategic importance of the Maranhão region, the Portuguese Crown created the Colonial State of Maranhão, made up of the independent captaincies of Maranhão and Grão-Pará.

With the subdivision of the captaincies of Maranhão and Grão-Pará, Tapuitapera became the head of the captaincy of Cumã, donated by the first governor of Maranhão, Francisco Coelho de Carvalho, to his brother Antônio Coelho de Carvalho in 1624. In 1641, during the Dutch invasion, the village was abandoned after a brief period of occupation and, in 1648, the village was elevated to the category of town, with the name of Alcântara.

By this time there was already a stone and mortar church dedicated to St Bartholomew and the first mills had been set up in the region.

Alcântara progressively prospered in all sectors and became the largest production centre in Maranhão, where the great fortunes of the time were built due to the large number of slaves. At the end of the 17th century, it rivalled São Luís, the seat of the state, and maintained its dominance from the 18th century until the mid-19th century, when Maranhão’s economy was based on cotton.

The region also acted as a trading post for foreign products or products from other regions of the country destined for the interior of Maranhão. The European influence was brought from abroad by the sons of the cotton plantation owners, who went to study, above all, in Coimbra (Portugal).

The town only had primary schools, and this practice continued for many years. This was due to the large number of families made up of Portuguese settlers, most of them of noble origin.

Later, with the creation of the legal course in Brazil, Olinda (in Pernambuco) replaced Coimbra.

During the last years of the 18th century, the city had a population of 400, served by a Casa de Misericórdia, while São Luís, the seat of the state, had just over 1,000 inhabitants.

In 1836, it was elevated to the status of a city, when it reached the height of its greatness. Over time, Alcântara’s economy became so developed that the nobility of the region came to rival that of São Luís.

Gradually, however, Alcântara lost importance in Maranhão’s production, and the reduction in economic activities was reflected in its social life, with the decline accentuated by the Abolition of Slavery and the settlement of other regions of Maranhão.

From then on, the city entered a process of irreversible decline. However, the grandeur of the past was imprinted on the valuable and beautiful 18th century architectural ensemble, in which the iron balconies and stone walls scattered throughout the city stand out.

3. HOW TO GET THERE

  • Aircraft: The nearest airport is São Luís International Airport (SLZ), located around 70 kilometres from Alcântara.
  • Boat: One of the most picturesque ways to get to Alcântara is by boat from São Luís. The journey takes around 1 to 2 hours.

4. TRAVEL TIPS

  • Best Time to Visit: The dry season, from June to December, is generally the best time to visit, as the rains are less frequent.
  • Accommodation: Alcântara offers a variety of accommodation options, from charming pousadas in colonial mansions to more modern options.
  • Gastronomy: Try typical Maranhão dishes such as arroz de cuxá, fried fish and prawns.

5. SUMMARY

Alcântara is a fascinating destination that combines history, culture and natural beauty. It’s ideal for those looking for an authentic and peaceful experience, away from the busiest tourist routes. Get ready to explore its cobbled streets, enjoy its unique cuisine and immerse yourself in the region’s rich cultural heritage.

Alcântara in Maranhão Tourist Guide

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