Bonito Tourist Attractions: Unforgettable experiences

Until the mid-1980s, the city of Bonito was a quiet farming town, a route for large herds of cattle.

Just over a decade later, Bonito became the mecca of ecotourism in Brazil.

Located between the Bodoquena Mountains and the Miranda River, 285 kilometres from the capital Campo Grande and 140 kilometres from the beginning of the Pantanal, the city of Bonito is one of the most important tourist destinations in Brazil.

Bonito is known for its natural beauty and ecotourism activities. The city offers a variety of attractions, including crystal clear rivers, caves, waterfalls and grottos that provide visitors with unforgettable experiences.

In addition to the natural beauty that inspired the city’s name, what makes the place famous is the way these attractions are exploited.

On the forty or so rural properties open to the public, there are strict rules about the use of waterfalls, rivers, trails and caves, aimed at what is known as minimum impact tourism.

Some ranchers have turned part of their land into environmental reserves and have invested in training staff to cater for tourists.

Visits to the most attractive sites can only be made in small groups, always accompanied by a guide and by prior arrangement with the tourist agencies, so that the maximum number of people present at each attraction can be controlled.

Some measures may surprise visitors – such as the ban on insect repellent and sunscreen for those wishing to dive in the rivers – and may give them a feeling of lack of freedom.

But the precautions are justified: the region’s ecosystem is indeed extremely fragile, and there is no better way for tourism to be both profitable and environmentally friendly.

As a result, Bonito has become a benchmark in the country’s ecotourism scene.

Life in the town of Bonito MS revolves around visitors.

The town has no special attractions, but the main street, Coronel Pilad Kebuá, offers a wide range of services: inns, restaurants, internet cafes, souvenir and craft shops, tourist agencies and diving companies.

In the evening, when the tourists return from their excursions, the street is full.

The most popular bar in Pilad Kebuá is the Taboa, which features performances by forró groups during holiday periods.

The Bonito Winter Festival is held in July, bringing together nationally renowned artists.

Accommodation in Bonito is available to suit all tastes and budgets.

Most hotels are close to the town centre. A few cosy inns near rivers and forests, away from the hustle and bustle, are more in keeping with the spirit of the region.

You’ll need a car to follow the most recommended tourist routes.

Videos – Attractions and places of interest in Bonito

Cidade de Bonito MS

17 Bonito MS Attractions

1. River Floating
2. Baía Bonita Natural Aquarium
3. Sucuri River
4. Rio Formoso
5. Fish River
6. Mimosa Resort
7. Waterfalls Park
8. Ceita Corê Farm
9. Blue Lake Cave
10. Aquidabã Waterfall
11. Anhumas Abyss
12. Tree climbing
13. Rafting on the Formosinho River
14. Rafting on the Formoso River
15. Municipal Spa
16. Fiqueira Beach
17. Buraco das Araras

1. Floating in the rivers

You don’t need to be very familiar with diving to enjoy the unique experience of ‘floating’ in Bonito’s rivers.

The most popular activity in the region is done with a life jacket – just let the current carry you along.

The underwater spectacle is breathtaking. Wearing masks, visibility can reach an incredible 50 metres. This phenomenon is due to the high concentration of limestone, a natural filter that breaks down impurities, leaving the water crystal clear.

The abundance of aquatic life is impressive.

Around eighty species of colourful and large fish – such as piraputangas, dourados and curimbatás – swim meekly alongside visitors.

On rare occasions, anacondas may cross your path, but this is not dangerous.

There are three rivers that are most recommended for rafting:

• Sucuri River
• Rio da Prata
• Rio Formoso

Each river has its own peculiarities.

All of them have facilities with guides and the necessary equipment. Some rules must be strictly observed to minimise the impact on the environment.

Each group, which must be accompanied by a guide, is made up of a maximum of nine people who walk in single file.

There is a half-hour break between each group.

There are two important warnings for newcomers: don’t drink the water from the Nos, as the limestone and magnesium in it can cause intestinal disorders, and avoid touching the bottom of the water, so as not to cloud it and impair the visibility of your group and the next one.

2. Baía Bonita Natural Aquarium

Located in a private ecological reserve.

This is one of Bonito’s main spring tours and you’ll see a surprising number of piraputangas, dourados, curimbas and the aquatic vegetation of the Baía Bonita. The tour takes place in a wetsuit and snorkel mask.

A five-minute walk from the Visitor Centre takes you to the spring, which is known as a natural aquarium due to the absolute transparency of its waters and the high concentration of fish.

At this point, the rafting begins, with a total length of 500 metres to be covered in one hour.

In addition to the river’s rich aquatic life, try taking off your mask and observing the riparian forest; capuchin monkeys often cross from one side of the aquarium to the other.

This is a good programme for children and the elderly, as a boat accompanies the divers for safety and as an option for those who don’t feel comfortable floating.

At the end of the raft, the walk resumes, stopping at points to observe animals in captivity – emus, caimans, anacondas, tapirs and marsh deer.

At the end of the walk, which takes an hour and a half on average, there is a small museum with bones of some species and explanatory texts on the ecosystem of the region.

It is worth mentioning the good facilities at the reception (toilets, restaurant, shop).

Differences of the Natural Aquarium

Due to the great diversity of fauna and flora, the main difference of the Natural Aquarium dive is undoubtedly the experience of diving in a real giant aquarium. It’s also the closest raft to the centre of Bonito.

7 kilometres from Bonito, access via the BR-267 to Jardim.

3. Sucuri River

To get here you have to take two zips: one ten minutes on the back of a truck and the other on foot, along a 500-metre trail through the forest, where you can see capuchin monkeys and a variety of birds.

The route begins at a viewpoint overlooking the Sucuri spring, a river of rare beauty that has been used as a backdrop for soap operas and television commercials.

Due to the fragility of the environment – the spring is shallow, with limestone slabs at the bottom – swimming is not allowed.

The river trip, organised by the São Geraldo farm, starts 200 metres downstream, lasts one hour and covers about 1 kilometre.

After the tour, you can have lunch at the farm and explore the surroundings on horseback, bicycle or quad bike.

17 kilometres from Bonito. Access by the road to São Geraldo.

4. Formoso River

Floating down the Formoso River is less contemplative – and more adventurous.

It’s no coincidence that the programme is called Bonito Aventura. At times the rapids and strong currents can be frightening for those unfamiliar with the water.

The starting point for the tour is a kiosk with a restaurant serving homemade food, located on the banks of the Formoso River.

After a 1.8-kilometre walk along an interpretive trail, with signs indicating the local flora and fauna, the route begins on the river, on a 2.2-kilometre course through its waters.

The whole tour takes about two and a half hours. There is also the possibility of scuba diving to a depth of 5 metres, which takes half an hour and requires no previous experience.

6 kilometres from Bonito. Access by the Guia Lopes road.

5. Fish River

If you’re only staying a few days in Bonito, the Rio do Peixe, which runs through the Agua Viva farm, is a great option.

Along the trails and waterfalls, you’ll have the chance to see a variety of animals, including blue macaws, capuchin monkeys and several piraputangas in the crystal clear rivers.

There are two trails that take you past no less than eleven waterfalls.

At the Água Viva headquarters, typical food is served on a wood-burning stove. Hammocks hang from a kiosk and invite you to relax.

The owner welcomes you personally, tells you stories about the region and shows you his intimacy with capuchin monkeys and macaws – who come to eat out of his hands.

35 kilometres from Bonito. Access by road to Bodoquena.

6. Estancia Mimosa

This is a two to three hour tour to explore the property’s waterfalls. A 3.5km trail through native forest follows the course of the Mimoso River.

Along the way there are a series of waterfalls, some of which are ideal for a refreshing swim, as well as jumping platforms, small caves and viewpoints.

At the Sol waterfall it is possible to enter a small cave hidden behind the water column with a life jacket.

The headquarters of the Estância Mimosa farm are simple and offer typical Pantanal food cooked on a wood-burning stove. For those who want to relax, the property has hammocks hanging from kiosks on the banks of a lagoon.

24 kilometres from Bonito. Access by road to Bodoquena.

7. Waterfalls Park

Located on the banks of the Mimoso River, this park has waterfalls that also belong to Estância Mimosa, on the opposite bank of the river. There is a 1.8 kilometre trail through the Atlantic Forest, with several bathing areas and viewpoints.

Regional food is served in the simple main building.

The exuberance of the vegetation, especially the centuries-old bacuris, makes the walk worthwhile.

17 kilometres from Bonito. Access by road to Aquidauana.

8. Ceita Corê Farm

One of the best farms in the Bodoquena Mountains, Ceita-Corê – the name means ‘land of my children’ in Tupi-Guarani – covers an area of 4,000 hectares and has many different attractions.

The main programme is a 2 kilometre trail that passes by the source of the Chapena River.

It’s also possible to go horseback riding among the lush, centuries-old trees.

There is also a lagoon full of birds where you can see “fishing” hawks.

A typical lunch at the farm is recommended.

36 kilometres from Bonito. Access by road to Bodoquena.

9. Blue Lake Grotto

This is one of the largest flooded caves in Brazil and Bonito’s most famous attraction, with around 60,000 visitors a year.

The place lives up to its reputation, but you won’t have much time to enjoy the view, as the tour takes just over an hour and you’re only allowed 20 minutes inside the cave, which is strictly controlled.

Access is via a short trail from the Visitor Centre.

The tourist descends 100 metres to a viewpoint overlooking the lake, which is 85 metres deep and whose waters explain its name.

Fossils of extinct animals such as the sabre-toothed tiger and the giant sloth have been found here. From December to February, a ray of sunlight enters the cave and illuminates the water, creating a beautiful spectacle.

In addition to the lake, the rock formations on the ceiling and floor of the cave – stalactites and stalagmites – attract the attention of visitors.

In 1978 the Blue Lake was listed by the National Institute of Historical and Artistic Heritage. To visit the cave, you must wear sneakers and a helmet, which will be provided on site.

20 kilometres from Bonito. Access by dirt road to Campos dos Índios.

10. Aquidabã Waterfall

With a drop of 120 metres, it is one of the highest in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul.

To reach it, you have to make a long and tortuous trek that requires physical fitness and a sense of adventure.

Along the route, which borders the Aquidabã River, there are natural pools and small waterfalls.

The trip to the Aquidabã waterfall takes about four hours and takes place at the Baía das Garças farm, where you can have lunch.

A word of warning: the Aquidabã waterfall dries up completely during the dry season, between July and October.

48 kilometres from Bonito. Access by road to Campos dos Índios.

11. Anhumas Abyss

This is a cave flooded by a lake that can only be reached by abseiling.

Those wishing to visit it must complete a training course for the descent – which is also used to assess whether the person is up to the challenge.

From the cleft in the rock that leads to the cave, there is a 72-metre descent to the lake.

At the end you come to a floating platform.

The lake is 80 metres deep, the size of an Olympic swimming pool, and is located in a hall full of limestone rock formations.

After rappelling, there’s a short boat ride to the lake, where you can swim, and anyone with a diving licence can go down to 18 metres – just show your licence.

Then comes the most difficult part: returning to the surface with the same ropes used for the descent, a task that requires enormous physical effort.

The equipment provided by the agencies that take visitors to the Anhumas Abyss – which is close to the Blue Lake Cave – meets international quality standards.

22 kilometres from Bonito. Access by the road to Campos dos Índios.

12. Climbing trees

There are two places to practise this activity in Bonito: the Ybira Pe (Wood Path, in Tupi) and the Arvorismo Circuit, both of which are similar.

in Bonito MS The activity consists of climbing up ropes to platforms on the top of trees up to 20 metres high, and from there over wobbly rope bridges, sections of zip wire, steel cables, abseils and other obstacles.

During the trip it is interesting to observe the forest from the treetops, where you can see many birds, bromeliads, orchids and vines.

Ybira Pe is located on the banks of the Formoso River, and the tree-climbing circuit is in an area of Cerrado and Atlantic forest.

Ybira Pe: 8 kilometres from Bonito. Access via the BR-267 to Jardim.

Tree-climbing circuit: 12 kilometres from Bonito. Access by road to Aquidauana

13. Buoy Crossing on the Formosinho River

This programme, which is not very well known and is only recommended for those who want to experience stronger emotions, starts at the Hotel Cabanas, 6 kilometres from the city, where life jackets and individual buoys are provided.

The 1 kilometre course takes 50 minutes and passes several waterfalls, rapids and backwaters. 7 kilometres from Bonito. Access by the Guia Lopes road.

14. Rafting on the Formoso River

Although it is called rafting, the activity that takes place on the Formoso River is actually a peaceful boat trip.

The starting point is a simple kiosk on the banks of the Formoso River.

Safety is poor, as helmets are not provided – although there is no danger.

The 7-kilometre route passes three small waterfalls and two rapids and ends at Padre Island, where there are more rapids for swimming.

The trip takes an average of two and a half hours, with stops at the Formoso backwaters.

12 kilometres from Bonito. Access by road to Padre Island.

15. Municipal Spa

One of the few attractions in Bonito that doesn’t require reservations or a guide.

Located on the banks of the Formoso River, the Balneário Municipal is very popular with the locals.

The infrastructure includes dozens of huts – serving fish and drinks – sand football and volleyball courts and benches to relax in the shade of centuries-old trees.

7 kilometres from Bonito. Access by the Guia Lopes road.

16. Fiqueira Beach

With white sands and transparent waters, this artificial spa is located in an old limestone quarry where rain has created a lake.

The name of this place comes from a fig tree that still stands, its crown overhanging a thousand square metres.

There are sports courts, a trampoline, sun loungers, flotation masks and a waterfront bar. Guides are not required.

14 kilometres from Bonito. Access by São Geraldo road.

17. Macaw hole

Buraco das Araras is 500 metres in circumference, 160 metres in diameter and 100 metres deep. It is home to a variety of birds, especially the Scarlet Macaw.

The walk has a path of about 900 metres around a depression in the ground carved out of red sandstone, whose colour contrasts with the green of the vegetation on the edge and serves as a backdrop.

From the viewpoint you can see the flight of the scarlet macaws that visit the site during the day.

Buraco das Araras is located on the Alegria farm, in the municipality of Jardim, Mato Grosso do Sul.

It’s about 50 km from the centre of Bonito.

When to go

The best months to visit Bonito MS are April, May, September, October and November.

The rainy season begins in December.

In winter the temperature reaches 15°C and the waterfalls have little water.

How to get there

From Campo Grande, the best way to get to Bonito is to take the BR-060 towards Sidrolandia to Guia Lopes da Laguna and then the MS-382.

Some warnings: bumpy roads, excessive rainfall in January and February, which can muddy the rivers, and ticks in the dry season, from May to September.

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