Mariana: A journey through time to colonial Brazil

The city of Mariana, in Minas Gerais, is one of the most important historical cities on the Gold Route. Together with its districts, it contains valuable relicts from the colonial period, which marked the beginning of the construction of the state’s history.

Mariana was the first capital of Minas Gerais, the first city with a planned urban project in the state and the seat of the first bishopric of Minas Gerais. Visiting Mariana is like going back in time and immersing yourself in colonial Brazil.

MARIANA MG
Historic centre of Mariana MG

The urban layout of its well-preserved historic centre differs from that of the other towns of the gold rush. The former Vila Real de Nossa Senhora do Ribeirão do Carmo, seat of the Captaincy of São Paulo and Minas do Ouro between 1711 and 1720, was remodeled in 1745, when it was elevated to city status and officially became the seat of the first Bishopric of Minas Gerais.

On that occasion it received its present name, in honour of the queen of Portugal, Dona Maria Ana.

As the first planned city in Minas Gerais, Mariana doesn’t have the tortuous alleys and narrow streets of its contemporaries. Instead, its wide streets and regular squares are home to some of the greatest jewels of Brazilian Baroque.

Colonial architecture can be admired in places like the Rua Direita, where well-preserved houses now house museums and cultural centres.

One example is the Casa Setecentista, the headquarters of Iphan, which houses a collection of around 50,000 documents from the 17th to 19th centuries, and also hosts exhibitions, lectures and courses (Rua Direita, 7).

The Alphonsus de Guimaraens House Museum houses personal objects, period furniture, books, manuscripts and photographs of the famous poet from Minas Gerais (Rua Direita, 35).

Another highlight is the Casa do Barão de Pontal, with its imposing façade decorated with soapstone balconies (Rua Direita, 54).

In the Praça Minas Gerais, the heart of the city, the Church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo and the Church of São Francisco de Assis stand out, arranged perpendicular to each other, both in front of the Pelourinho (a replica of the original, demolished in the 19th century) and the Casa de Câmara e Cadeia, forming a unique urban composition in the Baroque scene of Minas Gerais.

Video about the monuments of Mariana, MG

MARIANA MG
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Guia Turístico de Mariana MG

MARIANA ISLAND TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

1. BASILICA CATHEDRAL OF OUR LADY OF THE ASSUMPTION (SÊ)

CATEDRAL BASÍLICA DE NOSSA SENHORA DA ASSUNÇÃO (SÊ) EM MARIANA MG
BASILICA CATHEDRAL OF OUR LADY OF THE ASSUMPTION (SÊ) IN MARIANA MG

Built between 1709 and 1750, it is a beautiful example of the first phase of the Baroque style in Minas Gerais.

Made almost entirely of rammed earth, it has undergone several renovations. The simple façade hides a rich interior, where you’ll find treasures such as the Ataíde canvas in the baptistery, the baptismal font and the carillon attributed to Aleijadinho.

Its greatest treasure, however, is the magnificent German Arp-Schnitger organ, built in 1701 and donated by Dom João V in 1753.

It is the only instrument made by this manufacturer outside Europe and one of the few in the world to retain most of its original action. Fully restored, it can be heard every week at the cathedral concerts. Cláudio Manuel Square, centre.

2. CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF CARMEL

IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DO CARMO EM MARIANA MG
CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF CARMEL IN MARIANA MG

The grandiose façade, with its florets and cylindrical towers, is reminiscent of the Church of St. Francis of Assisi in Ouro Preto.

One of the last examples of Rococo in Minas Gerais, its construction began in 1784 and lasted until 1835, when the tower clocks were installed.

The carvings on the side altars, high altar and altarpieces are beautiful. In 1999, a fire destroyed a large part of the central nave, several paintings and the ceiling fresco. Address. Minas Gerais, s/n, Centre.

3. CHURCH OF SAINT FRANCIS DE ASSIS

IGREJA DE SÀO FRANCISCO DE ASSIS EM MARIANA MG
CHURCH OF SAINT FRANCIS DE ASSIS IN MARIANA MG

Next to the Church of Carmo, the Church of San Francisco de Assisi is a beautiful stone building, built between 1763 and 1794, with an imposing soapstone portal.

Inside, the highlights are the paintings in the sacristy by Manuel da Costa Ataíde and those on the ceiling of the nave by Francisco Xavier Carneiro. The two artists also worked on the gilding of the delicate carvings on the altars and altarpieces. Ataíde is buried in the church, in grave number 94, just outside the entrance. Address. Minas Gerais, s/n, Centre.

4. TOWN HALL AND PRISON

CASA DE CÂMARA E CADEIA EM MARIANA MG
MARIANA MG TOWN HALL AND PRISON

Together with the churches of Carmo and São Francisco de Assis, it completes the important architectural ensemble of Minas Gerais Square. Its bluish carved stone work is remarkable, especially the florion with the royal coat of arms in the portico.

Built over a period of 30 years, from 1768 to 1798, the building is reminiscent of Portuguese farmhouses, with two floors and external staircases with soapstone banisters and handrails.

On the lower floor you can still see the three prisons, for free men, slaves and women respectively.
As well as the prison and town hall, the building also housed a butcher’s shop, a chapel, a hospital and a gold smelter.

Today it is the seat of the Mariana City Council. Minas Gerais Square, s/n, Centre.

5. CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE ANGELS – ARCHCONFRATERNITY

IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DOS ANJOS - ARQUICONFRARIA EM MARIANA MG
CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE ANGELS – ARCHCONFRATERNITY IN MARIANA MG

Built in 1784 by members of the Order of the Cordon of Saint Francis, it is simple and graceful, avoiding baroque pretensions.

It is the only church in Mariana to have a façade divided into three levels, with a central tower, a common solution in other towns in the region. R. D. Silvério, Centre.

6. CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF MERCY

IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DAS MERCÊS EM MARIANA MG
CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF MERCY IN MARIANA MG

Dating from the second half of the 18th century, it preserves part of the wooden and rammed-earth structure of the original chapel.

The building is reminiscent of the church of the Archconfraternity: the columns are simple and the altars are poorly decorated, but it houses a valuable collection of carved wooden and gilded images, including those of the Holy Family and Our Lady of the Nativity. R. das Mercês, s/n.

7. SAINT PEDRO DOS CLÉRIGOS CHURCH

IGREJA DE SÀO PEDRO DOS CLÉRIGOS EM MARIANA MG
SÃO PEDRO DOS CLÉRIGOS CHURCH IN MARIANA MG

One of the main attractions of this church is the climb to the top of the tower, from where you have a magnificent view of the city.

The oval construction began in 1752 and was never completed. The majestic façade contrasts with the simple interior, with a beautiful high altar carved in cedar.

The stone tower on the left is original; the one on the right was rebuilt with bricks. End of D. Silvério Street, St. Peter’s Hill.

8. SAINT JOSEPH SEMINARY

SEMINÁRIO SÃO JOSÉ EM MARIANA MG
SAINT JOSEPH SEMINARY IN MARIANA MG

An avenue of imperial palms leads up to the imposing building, which dates from 1934 and is surrounded by gardens.

A large painting of São Sé decorates the colonial-style façade; the stone staircases are studded with imperial topazes, a typical gem from the region. R. Cônego Amando, 57, Chácara.

9. BISHOPS’ PALACE AND MUSIC MUSEUM

The huge 1750s Palácio dos Bispos, also known as Palácio da Olaria and declared a National Historic-Artistic Monument, is being restored (no opening date yet) to house the Music Museum (currently in Rua Direita and open to visitors by appointment only) and a cultural centre with a conservatory, library, exhibition hall and auditorium. R. Cônego Amando, s/n, Centre.

10. ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF RELIGIOUS ART

MUSEU ARQUIDIOCESANO DE ARTE SACRA EM MARIANA MG
MARIANA M. ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF RELIGIOUS ART

It is housed in a mansion built in 1770 by José Pereira Arouca, with stonework and stonemasonry details.

It is one of the most complete museums of religious art in the country, with a collection of around 2,000 pieces of furniture, images, paintings, vestments, crockery and crystal.

In the entrance hall, the extraordinary Samaritan Fountain, a soapstone bas-relief by Aleijadinho, stands out. R. Frei Durão, 49.

11. CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE BLACK ROSARY

IGREJA NOSSA SENHORA DO ROSÁRIO DOS PRETOS EM MARIANA MG
NOSSA SENHORA DO ROSÁRIO DOS PRETOS CHURCH IN MARIANA MG

The work, an initiative of the black brotherhoods of Mariana, began in 1752 and was completed in 1758.

Designed by José Pereira dos Santos, it has a balanced and sober façade and a privileged location at the top of Rosário Hill.

It houses paintings by Ataíde and exquisite gilded wood carvings on the altars. Monsenhor Horta Street, Rosário.

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The Historical Formation of the City of Mariana – MG

This article aims to provide an overview of the historical formation of the city of Mariana, located in the state of Minas Gerais, highlighting its role in the context of occupation and mineral exploration in colonial Brazil.

Founded at the end of the 17th century, Mariana was the first town, planned city and episcopal seat of the captaincy, playing a central role in the urban, economic and religious structuring of the region.

The study also highlights architectural aspects and the importance of religious orders in the urban and cultural configuration of the city.

1 Introduction

The city of Mariana, in Minas Gerais, occupies a prominent position in the process of occupation and consolidation of the Brazilian interior during the gold rush. Its foundation, still in the 17th century, is directly linked to the bandeirante expeditions and the discovery of gold deposits, which led to the development of organised urban centres. This article analyses the main events and characteristics that have marked its historical development.

2. Foundation and initial development

In 1696, Colonel Salvador Fernandes Furtado de Mendonça’s troops settled on the banks of a stream and founded the village of Ribeirão do Carmo, named in honour of Our Lady of Carmo. The discovery of gold there consolidated the settlement and made the Arraial one of the main gold mining centres of the colony.

Population growth was intense, attracting adventurers, traders and religious people from different parts of Brazil and Portugal. The intense mining activity promoted the consolidation of the city as a strategic urban centre for the Portuguese colonial administration.

3. Elevation to the category of city

In 1711, Arraial was promoted to a city, becoming the first town and later the first city in Minas Gerais during the colonial period. It became one of the most important commercial, administrative and educational centres in the state.

During the reign of Dom Pedro de Almeida Portugal, Count of Assumar, there were revolts against the collection of mining taxes, which contributed to the creation of the Captaincy of Minas Gerais in 1720, breaking away from the Captaincy of São Paulo.

4. Town planning and architecture

From 1743, the expansion of Mariana followed the urban plan drawn up by José Fernandes Pinto Alpoim, a Portuguese architect who introduced regular lines to the urban fabric, unlike the other cities of Minas Gerais, which were characterised by organic layouts and winding streets. In 1745, Mariana was elevated to the category of city and received its current name in honour of Queen Maria Ana of Austria, wife of King João V.

The city was planned according to the principles of the Enlightenment, with an orthogonal layout, wide streets and regular squares, a favourable setting for the construction of churches, public buildings and noble residences.

5. The Church and the Bishopric

In the same year that it was elevated to city status, Mariana became the seat of the first Bishopric of Minas Gerais, by means of a bull issued by Pope Benedict XIV, with Friar Manuel da Cruz as its first Bishop. The city became known as the City of Bishops and in 1906 received the title of Archbishopric with the consecration of Dom Silvério Gomes Pimenta.

The Third Order played a fundamental role in the religious and cultural life of the city, especially in the second half of the 18th century, when they promoted the construction of several temples of great artistic value.

6. Architectural and religious heritage

Mariana’s urban layout preserves notable elements from the colonial period. In João Pinheiro Square, you’ll find the churches of the Confraternities of São Francisco de Assis and Carmo, side by side in an emblematic architectural composition.

Other churches, such as Nossa Senhora das Mercês and Nossa Senhora do Rosário, linked to the Black Brotherhoods, also stand out, although they are located in more peripheral areas of the historic centre.

Although it has not achieved the same economic and architectural development as Ouro Preto, Mariana still has a significant heritage, including religious temples, civil buildings and historical collections, such as those housed in the Casa Setecentista and the Casa de Alphonsus de Guimaraens.

7. Final considerations

The city of Mariana represents a milestone in the urban, administrative and religious history of Minas Gerais. Its history reveals the complexity of colonial dynamics linked to mining and social and urban organisation. The material and immaterial heritage left by this history makes Mariana an important object of study and conservation, essential for understanding colonial Brazil and the formation of the historic cities of Minas Gerais.

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