Cultivar e Cuidar de Orquídeas — Orchid Growing and Care

Growing and caring for orchids in general is not complicated, but it is impossible to establish a single, uniform rule for more than 750 genera of orchids.

Orchids are attractive and exotic, the orchids have gained fame and are considered indicators of sophistication and exclusivity.

These fascinating plants belong to the Orchidaceae family, subdivided into more than 1.8 thousand genera, with the total number of species oscillating around 35 thousand.

There are orchids of the most different shapes and sizes, from plants that reach four meters in height to very small ones, the size of a pinhead.

In addition to commercial cultivation, which is very intense in Brazil, many lovers collect and dedicate themselves to the delicate plant in their gardens, becoming orchidophiles.

In terms of classification by habitat, orchids are subdivided into epiphytes, which use tree trunks to grow (but do not suck their nutrients), terrestrial, rupicolous (living on rocks, fixed in the lichens of the cracks), and saprophytes, which develop on decomposing organic material.

In a typical orchid there are always three sepals: one dorsal and two lateral, which surround and protect the flower in bud.

In addition, they have three petals, one of which is almost always larger and more striking, called the lip, from which the perfume comes out to attract pollinators. Finally, in the center of the flower is its reproductive organ.

Cultivar Orquídeas

Dicas - Cultivar Orquídeas

Orquídeas - Plantar

Cultivation in general is not complicated, but it is impossible to establish a single, uniform rule. As they can grow and flower anywhere in the world and at different temperatures, each variety has its own specific needs.

When setting up your garden, this biological amplitude makes it interesting to have several species, as their flowering cycles are often different. This increases the chances of always having a flowering specimen.

Basic cultivation with orchids

Most orchids can be planted in clay or plastic pots, but clay pots are more recommended, as they facilitate the aeration of the roots and eliminate excess water more efficiently.

To assemble a pot, place a layer of stone at the bottom, about two to three centimeters, to allow the residual water to drain quickly. Then, top up with previously washed coconut fiber (or similar). Avoid substrates that contain a lot of dust, as the roots need aeration.

Some orchids grow horizontally (rhizome) and emit sequential shoots, others are monopodial, that is, they grow vertically and should be planted in the center of the pot or in baskets without any substrate.

There are also orchids that hardly adapt inside pots: in these cases, the ideal is to grow them on tree trunks or peroba bark, protecting the roots with plastic until they adapt.

Always choose plants that are well adapted to the place of cultivation, as they will be better acclimatized to the temperatures, ventilation and luminosity of the place.

In general, orchids need sun to develop properly, so place your plants where they can be bathed in morning or evening sun.

If the plant does not get sun, it will not flower. Also make sure that the environment is airy, but not subjected to very strong winds. Watering depends on the substrate, but never overwater your orchid, it is easier to kill an orchid by overwatering than by underwatering.

Simply put, if an orchid is planted in a dusty substrate, watering can be weekly, but if the substrate is piassaba (piassava) or wood bark, water the plant daily.

With regard to fertilization, you can use foliar fertilizers (liquids) – which can be found in the gardening section of supermarkets or garden centers – and which must be added (a few drops) to the water with which it will be sprayed through small sprayers.

It is important to wet the underside of the leaves, as this is where the stomata are located, which absorb water and nutrients. Pests and diseases only appear with cultivation deficiencies and can be fought with natural syrups or manual scavenging.

How to Care for Orchids

Orchids have long been a symbol of love and beauty. Planted by enthusiasts for their complete elegance and allure, they are also used in wedding bouquets or as bracelets at many graduation parties or special events. On many occasions, from weddings to conferences, orchids in decoration make tables more graceful.

With over 750 orchid genera, more than 30,000 hybrids and so many more introduced every year, there is a huge variety available for enthusiasts.

In fact, orchids can be planted on every continent but Antarctica, so you can choose from natives or internationals, depending on availability.

While a true orchid enthusiast can (and should) spend considerable time studying entire tomes on orchid growth and care, the beginner must start somewhere.

In this article, you will learn the basics of caring for orchids, which are generally hardy and easy to grow. Once you have learned the basics and continue to feel passionate about orchids, you can explore more challenging varieties according to your confidence level.

Selecting Orchids

Method 1 of 6

1. Find the right orchid for your home

Proper orchid care begins by choosing plants that are suitable for your particular environment.

The orchids discussed in this article should be planted indoors because of their adaptability to most conditions, ease of planting, availability, and their beautiful flowers.

If you want to extend beyond the easier varieties later, it is recommended that you research extensively the specific needs of the more delicate and demanding orchid varieties. Some things to think about when choosing an orchid include:

Will the orchid have enough space when fully grown? Or will it need to be moved elsewhere? Some orchids can get huge when fully grown, and it may be best to place them in a greenhouse.

Can you provide the temperature requirements the orchid needs? Orchids can be divided into three types according to temperature requirements – cool, intermediate and warm, which means that orchids require certain minimum temperatures at night to grow successfully.

Do you have a greenhouse or conservatory if necessary? Many orchids thrive better in these environments than simply indoors. If you don’t, prefer orchids that can stay indoors (see list below).

2. Buy flowering plants

Plants that already have flowers are great buys because it can take up to 5 years for a seed to produce a flower.

Unless you are extremely patient, or if you already have a greenhouse full of orchids, you probably don’t want to wait that long.

3. Consider your growing conditions

Select an orchid based on the growing conditions in your home.

This is important because each type of orchid has different requirements, depending on its origin.

Always read the label with the instructions to make sure the plant is suitable for the conditions of your home and garden.

Here are some common orchid species

Phalaenopsis

Often called the moth orchid, they are elegant for home use. Their beautiful and colorful flowers stay fresh for months.

Flowering begins in winter or early spring. This orchid generally needs less light than cattleyas (see next), and does well in most home conditions.

Cattleya

These orchids are most easily recognized by their use in bouquets and by having flowers that can last from two to six weeks.

They usually bloom once a year during spring or fall, but need twice as much light as the moth orchid to do well indoors.

Dendrobium

These beautiful orchids produce long, graceful flowers that are typically white, lavender, or a combination of the two, during the fall and winter. Their flowers can stay open for three to four weeks, and they are one of the easiest plants to care for.

Paphiopedilum

The popular name of this orchid is Slipper because its third petal is modified to form a pouch that looks like a slipper. The pouch works by trapping insects so that they are forced to climb the staminoid, behind which they collect or deposit pollen.

The leaves are usually attractive, being green or with a mixture of green and white. These orchids need fairly bright light, but no direct contact with the sun. At home, a shaded window to the east, west or south is best (for the northern hemisphere).

The foliage should be naturally semi-upright and firm, without drooping. Room temperature is ideal for its growth.

Method 2 of 6: Watering and Feeding

1. Learn how to water your orchids

Orchidaceae are one of the largest families of flowering plants, so they have many subfamilies, or variations, and they have different needs when it comes to watering.

What may dry out one species may drown another. Generally, water your orchids every five to twelve days depending on the type you have, the temperature and the time of year – or more in summer and less in winter.

Your florist can give you specific information, and here is also a general guide to help you determine the best way to water your orchids:

Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, Cymbidium and Dontoglossum

a. Keep these varieties moist (not wet) at all times

Paphiopedilum
Miltonia
Cymbidium
Dontoglossum
Cattleya
Cattleya, Oncidium, Brassia and Dendrobium
Oncidium
Brassia
Dendrobium

c. Keep these varieties almost dry between the times you water them

Phalaenopsis
Vanda
Ascocenda

d. Avoid getting the leaves wet when watering your orchids. If they do get wet, dry them with a tissue.

2. Keep the medium aqueous

Remove the jar from inside the decorative, place it in the sink or bathtub. Add the orchid food in a container or watering can and water the base thoroughly. Allow the water to drain completely before placing the pitcher back into the decorative pitcher. Never leave the plant in water as it may die.

Note: Epiphytic orchids are not planted in the ground like terrestrial varieties, but in the bark of a coconut, tree or on a cork. Or they can be planted in baskets with slats or on strips of wood. Their roots grow from above, not from below like terrestrial plants.

3. Feed the orchid

In general, only once a month is recommended for most fertilizers. Look for fertilizers that contain nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), as well as trace elements such as iron (Fe).

Use fertilizers with a high percentage of nitrogen when a bud is coming out, and fertilizers with more phosphorus and potassium later in the season. Don’t overfeed orchids – this can harm them.

If you are planting your orchid in a bark mulch, use a fertilizer that is significantly richer in nitrogen (in a ratio of 30(N) – 10(P) – 10(K)). The bacteria in the decaying bark consume a lot of nitrogen.
Water your orchid carefully before feeding it.

Planting – Method 3 of 6

1. Understand the different needs of terrestrial and epiphytic orchids

Many orchids are epiphytes (growing on trees or branches) and need a different medium for their growth than terrestrial orchids; in fact, orchids often die when planted in soil as they are not soil orchids. Epiphytes have thick roots that attach to plants or tree bark and absorb water and nutrients; others have aerial roots that grow loosely.

Epiphytic orchids grow best in soil-less mixtures or attached to parts of bark or cork. Epiphytic orchids require a growing environment with extremely good aeration and drainage.

2. Provide a suitable growing environment for your orchids

Common growing environments include pine bark, coconut husk, sphagnum moss, fern fibers, perlite or a mixture of them.

However, the growing medium will depend on the type of orchid – terrestrial ones should have a medium formed mainly of clay with equal parts of substances such as sphagnum moss, moist peat or acidic sand.

Epiphytes should be in a growing substance consisting of equal parts sphagnum moss, ground bark, vermiculite and moist peat. It is easiest to buy a ready-made mixture suitable for the type of orchid, and always know the specific needs of the orchid variety you are planting, as they can vary greatly.

3. Re-pot if necessary

You will need to repot the orchid occasionally, both to refresh the environment and to benefit growth. Spring is the common time to repot orchids.

Here are some things to consider

- - Orchids planted in bark should be repotted every 18 to 24 months, in general.
    Select the pot size based on the size of the root mass. Orchids tend to prefer smaller pots. With a significantly large pot, the orchid will expand most of its root energy, and will not show any growth or foliage for months, so keep the pot small. All orchids prefer to have roots that come out of the top of the pot (or aerial roots should just stay free). However, when plants produce more sticks or cuttings, they may eventually grow beyond the size of the pot.
- - The pot will affect how you water. An orchid in a pot with pores such as clay (good for orchids) will need you to water it more often than an orchid in a plastic pot.
    Always use a pot with drainage holes. Constant contact with water will rot the roots, and the orchid will be covered in roots with soil and manure.
    In larger pots, the center environment may take longer to dry out – a condition that will harm the orchid. To avoid this, use broken clay pots at the bottom of the container to increase drainage.
    If you are using a clay container, enlarge the drainage hole or drill additional holes in the sides (near the bottom) of the pot.

4. Replant the orchid according to its type

Carefully repot your plant in a slightly larger pot or a suitable container, using the porous medium suggested above. Always ensure good drainage.

For a terrestrial orchid: remove the plant from the original pot. Carefully remove the old medium. Place the plant in a clean pot, with some of the fresh medium around the roots. Firm in place using a weeder or small stick. Leave a small gap between the compost and the edges to leave a space for watering Leave about 12 mm.

For an epiphytic orchid: remove the loose, old medium. Cut off the dead roots and throw them away. Hold the orchid upside down and place new medium around the roots to make it tight. Turn the orchid to the right side and place it back in the chosen container. An epiphytic orchid that has just been repotted should not be watered for about a week as this allows the roots to re-establish themselves. Water sparingly after that to ensure the new roots are not harmed.

5. After repotting

Keep the medium appropriately moist. This is especially important in late spring and summer.

Potting and Caring – Method 4 of 6

1. Keep the bloom

Peak flowering begins in the second half of winter, mainly in February and March in the northern hemisphere. Flowers usually last from four to twelve weeks. When the bloom begins to fade, cut the stalk 12 mm above where it protrudes from the foliage. Also cut away dead leaves and tissue, including old flower stalks, old leaves, anything that is rotting, dead roots, etc.
In the event of a rot or fungal disease, cut beyond the infected tissue to help prevent the infection from progressing.

2. Do not prune an orchid like a shrub

If you cut off part of an orchid leaf, the rest of the leaf may die, and cutting it off as a pseudobulb will seriously harm your orchid.

3. Use sterilized instruments when cutting orchids

This will help prevent the spread of diseases from plant to plant. It is recommended that you soak the instruments in sanitary water before using them, or use a disposable blade.

4. Observe the new growth

This will be in the form of a new stalk growing from the base of the old ones. Under the right conditions, the new stalk can be larger than the original before it is ready to flower again.
A cool temperature at night helps to initiate flowering. With proper care, according to the particular needs of the orchid variety, your plant will grow and flower annually.

Air Ventilation – Method 5 of 6

1. Maintain the correct temperature

18 – 30 degrees Celsius is the best temperature. For short periods they can withstand temperatures ranging from 13-37 degrees, but they don’t like sudden temperature changes..

Cold temperatures will turn the leaves yellow and they may eventually fall off. If this happens, remove the yellow foliage and continue to care for the plant as normal.

2. Ensure proper air circulation

Having good circulation can make all the difference in the health of your orchid. It helps it heal if you have a fungal infestation or some pest that must be treated. Air circulation is also a big part of preventing these types of infestations by keeping the leaves and flowers dry.

In the summer, open windows to allow natural airflow to circulate. This promotes water evaporation and lots of fresh carbon dioxide. A gentle breeze also helps orchids cope with sunlight without burning the leaves.
In winter (or summer on calm days), use an oscillating fan to stir the air gently. Move it around the site occasionally so that one area doesn’t get too much wind.