The Northern Pantanal covers about a third of the total area of the Pantanal.
The Northern Pantanal is remarkably rich in wildlife, with some areas hosting what is believed to be the largest concentration of jaguars in the world.
A drive along the Transpantaneira in the northern Pantanal is widely regarded as one of the best wildlife viewing experiences in South America.
As well as wildlife, the region has a vibrant culture – with major festivals in Cuiabá, Poconé and Vila Bela da Santíssima Trindade.
The northern region of the Pantanal covers about a third of the total area of the Pantanal and is more aquatic than the southern region.
It is made up of a plain with a large number of rivers, lakes and lagoons – which flood and merge during the rainy season.
The area is punctuated by forested hills that remain above water level and provide a refuge for wildlife during the rainy season.
Parque Nacional do Pantanal Matogrossense33:06
Poconé - Porto Jofre - Santa Rosa Pantanal26:00
Transpantaneira03:24
Archaeological evidence also suggests that these hills were the site of the first human settlements in the region.
The Northern Pantanal was also the first region of the Pantanal to become the focus of European colonisation.
This settlement was encouraged by the discovery of gold at the beginning of the 18th century – leading to the founding of Cuiabá, Poconé and Vila Bela da Santíssima Trindade (then on the border between the rival Portuguese and Spanish empires).
Early settlement and the diversity of cultures involved have left a rich cultural heritage that visitors to the region can still experience today.
Cities and Regions of the Northern Pantanal
1. Cuiabá
Despite being outside the Pantanal, the city of Cuiabá is the centre of travel in the region.
However, when passing through, it is highly recommended that visitors experience the museums, regional cuisine and cultural festivals that the city has to offer.
Cuiabá is the capital of the state of Mato Grosso. Together with its sister city, Vázea Grande, across the river from Cuiabá, it is the state’s main metropolitan area – with a combined population of almost 1 million.
If you’re flying into the region, this is likely to be your first stop.
Cuiabá is the gateway to the northern Pantanal – as well as the neighbouring Chapada dos Guimarães and other attractions. Cuiabá also has its own local culture and sights worth exploring.
Cuiabá is one of the hottest cities in Brazil, literally, with temperatures sometimes reaching 110°F (43°C).
These high temperatures coincide with the rainy season – which also makes it more humid. It is believed that the name of the city, Cuiabá, comes from the indigenous Bororó word IKUIAPÁ – which means ‘place of IKUIA’. Ikuia is the name given by the Bororó to the practice of fishing with a bow and arrow.
2. Cáceres
The Pantanal region around Cáceres includes several historic farms, ecological areas in the Taiamã and Serra das Araras Ecological Stations, and a large annual fishing festival.
The city is also the centre of several boat hotels that allow you to explore the interior of the Pantanal in comfort.
The historic city of Caceres is known as the “Little Princess of Paraguay”. Every year it hosts the biggest freshwater fishing competition in Brazil (and probably the world) – as well as beautifully restored old buildings.
The surrounding area includes two ecological research stations, cave diving and opportunities for extended fishing trips at the Barco Hotels in the middle of the Pantanal.
3. Poconé
Poconé is a must-see for wildlife.
Known locally as the “Pink City” due to the flowering of the ipês, Poconé is the main gateway to the northern Pantanal.
It is the starting point for the Transpantaneira, a 150 kilometre stretch of dirt road that connects Poconé to Porto Jofre – a journey that offers some of the best wildlife viewing opportunities.
The region is served by a well-established network of lodges and ranches.
The region includes the Transpantaneira – a dirt road that leads into the heart of the Pantanal (and also provides access to about a dozen ranches) with unrivalled wildlife viewing opportunities.
Poconé culture is also unique, with an annual cavalcade reenacting a medieval battle between Christians and Moors, and a masked dance.
Most of the region’s economy is still based on cattle ranching and agriculture, but tourism is now an important contributor.
Gold mining has also returned, but has been modernised and operates under controls aimed at reducing pollution of waterways and the environment.
4. Mato Grosso Pantanal National Park
Porto Jofre (at the other end of the Transpantaneira) is the gateway to the Mato Grosso Pantanal National Park.
The area remains undeveloped and almost untouched – which means it’s one of the best places in the region to see and photograph a wide variety of wildlife, including more than 600 species of birds, as well as larger animals such as giant anteaters, giant otters, tapirs, howler monkeys and jaguars.
The park is located at the confluence of the Paraguay and Cuiabá rivers and includes several large lakes, such as Uberaba Bay.
It was created in 1981 from a former ecological station and reserve inhabited by the Guató Indians.
The park expanded with the acquisition of several farms on the outskirts of the park.
There isn’t much infrastructure for visitors, as the park is geared more towards conservation and research than tourism. There is no camping or accommodation in the park. However, boat trips through the park can be organised from Porto Jofre.
5. Barão de Melgaço
Barão de Melgaço is the birthplace of Marshal Cândido Rondon, one of Brazil’s most respected historical figures.
The city has several lakes and inns worth exploring, while the regional city of Jaciara is a popular rafting destination.
The Pantanal region of Barão de Melgaço offers other options for travellers.
Although not as famous for its wildlife as the Poconé region, there is still plenty to see and do.
Further afield, the city of Rondonópolis offers visitors the chance to explore rock formations and archaeological sites, while the cities of Jaciara and Juscimeira offer adventure sports such as rafting, abseiling down waterfalls (or just enjoying the view) and the chance to relax in thermal pools.
6. Vila Bela da Santíssima Trindade
Finally, the city of Vila Bela da Santíssima Trindade, in the far north of the Pantanal region, is an important historical centre that was once the capital of the Mato Grosso region.
The city offers a unique insight into Brazil’s African culture – as well as a mix of wildlife and landscapes from the Pantanal and the Amazon, along the Guaporé River. It is also the only place in the region where pink dolphins can be found.
Vila Bela da Santíssima Trindade (or Vila Bela) was founded in 1752 and was the first capital of Mato Grosso until 1835, when the title was transferred to the more accessible city of Cuiabá.
Vila Bela da Santíssima Trindade is located near the border with Bolivia, about 540 kilometres from Cuiabá and 300 kilometres from Cáceres. Although still off the beaten track, Vila Bela is well worth a visit. In addition to its historical sites, the town preserves old African customs (some of which no longer exist in Africa).
The city is close to the Pantanal, but the local environment is a mixture of Amazon rainforest and catinga (high pasture).
There are high cliffs and picturesque waterfalls. In addition, the Guaporé River, which runs through the town, is the only place in the region where you can see both the pink river dolphin and the grey river dolphin (tucuxi or boto-cinza).
However, the town remains underdeveloped, with no major tourist infrastructure, meaning that visits are best suited to the more adventurous traveller with some basic Portuguese to negotiate accommodation and excursions on the spot.
See the following publications on the Pantanal
- Observing mammals and reptiles in the Pantanal
- Fishing in the Pantanal – Best places, lures, methods and seasons
- Most common fish species in the Pantanal
- Birdwatching in the Pantanal of Mato Grosso
- Most common bird species in the Mato Grosso Pantanal
- Flora of the Mato Grosso Pantanal
- Fauna of the Mato Grosso Pantanal
- Pantanal of Mato Grosso – Geography, climate, soil and rivers
- History of the Mato Grosso Pantanal – Discovery and economic development
- Southern Pantanal Region
- Northern Pantanal Region
- Why visit the Pantanal in Mato Grosso?
