São João del Rei MG – Attractions, History and Architecture

Modern buildings mix with colonial relics in São João del Rei, whose history begins at the end of the 17th century.

In 1713, the village founded by bandeirantes on the banks of the River Mortes was elevated to the status of a town with its current name, in honour of the King of Portugal, Dom João V.

São João del-Rei MG
São João del Rei MG

The city prospered thanks to mining and, unlike the others, survived its decline by turning to agriculture, livestock and commerce.

The price of this economic growth was the loss of some of its colonial buildings.

Today, São João del Rei is a lively and active city.

The Baroque style is present in the churches and buildings of the historic centre, which can be visited on foot.

With its Baroque architecture, which recalls the colonial style of the state’s gold mining period in the 18th century, São João del Rei is a city that exudes art, culture and history.

Video about the Tourist Attractions of São João del Rei MG

Ponte do Rosário São João del-Rei
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São João del-Rei in Minas Gerais

1. The history

In search of emeralds, Fernão Dias Pais Leme’s flag was forced to spend the rainy season in Serra Negra in 1674, where it founded the first settlement in Minas Gerais – Ibituruna, twelve leagues from the modern city of São João Del Rei, to which it belonged until 1922.

The auriferous gravels of the Rio das Mortes basin, which “whistled along the path trodden by the bandeirantes”, revealed the region’s large gold deposits. The first settlers of São João Del Rei came from São Paulo.

At the end of the 17th century, Tomé Portes Del Rei, from Taubaté, settled on the banks of the River Mortes, a place they called “Porto Real” because it was a passage for all ships, and the first settlement began. In 1702, however, Tomé Portes Del Rei, who had been granted the right to charge for passage on the Mortes since 1701, died.

He was succeeded by his son-in-law, Antônio Garcia da Cunha.

Until 1703, the town’s importance lay in its position as a link to the Sertões do Caeté and the Carmo, Ouro Preto and Sabará mines. Between 1703 and 1704, the Portuguese explorer Manuel João de Barcelos discovered rich gold deposits in the foothills, and the São Paulo explorers Pedro do Rosário and Lourenço da Costa began their work there.

Outsiders and adventurers began to flock to the area.

And on the slopes of the mountain, now known as Morro da Forca, the Paulistas built the first church, dedicated to Our Lady of Pilar. This is how the city of Rio das Mortes was born, due to its geographical location and the richness of its mineral resources.

During the war between the Paulistas and the Emboabas, still at the beginning of the 18th century, the arraial of Rio das Mortes was severely shaken by the death and expulsion of the Paulistas, from whom the mines were usurped.

Despite these struggles and disputes, the settlement continued to flourish.

On 8 July 1713, the city was founded and named after King João V and Tomé Portes Del Rei.

2. Tourist Attractions and Colonial Architecture

São João del-Rei, in Minas Gerais, is known for its colonial charm and historical attractions that preserve the richness of Minas Gerais Baroque.

Highlights include the Church of São Francisco de Assis, with its soapstone façade attributed to Aleijadinho, and the Cathedral of Nossa Senhora do Pilar, famous for its gilded altars.

The city still has old houses, cobbled streets and churches, such as Nossa Senhora do Carmo, that charm with their architecture and centuries-old traditions.

  • Parish Church of Our Lady of Pilar
  • Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
  • Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
  • Church of Our Lady of Mercy
  • Church of St Francis of Assisi
  • Tin Museum
  • Regional Museum of São João del-Rei
  • Railway Museum
  • Sightseeing in the city

1. Mother Church of Our Lady of Pilar

Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar em São João del-Rei MG
Parish Church of Our Lady of Pilar in São João del Rei MG

Bárbara Heliodora and Tancredo Neves were baptised in its font.

Built in 1721 to replace a chapel burnt down during the Emboabas War, it underwent a process of expansion at the beginning of the 19th century, when its façade was remodelled and given neoclassical lines.

The Baroque opulence is evident in the magnificent gilded woodwork of its six altars, which are lavishly carved; on the first altar on the right, for example, there is an image of Saint Michael adorned with diamonds and emeralds; more than two hundred kilos of gold were used for the image of the patron saint. Getúlio Vargas Street, centre.

2. Church of Our Lady of the Rosary

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário em São João del-Rei MG
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary in São João del-Rei MG

Built between 1708 and 1709.

It has been rebuilt several times, including the construction of a second bell tower in 1936.

Its main attractions are the image of the patron saint on a richly carved throne, the carving of the transept and the altarpiece of the high altar.

The images were sculpted by the Master of Cajuru – a name attributed by researchers to an unknown 18th century artist who worked in the region.

Praça Embaixador Gastão da Cunha (Largo do Rosário), s/n.

3. Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo em São João del-Rei MG
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in São João del-Rei MG

Built between 1732 and 1785, the most striking features of this church are its octagonal towers.

The altars are painted white; the elegant decoration, without excess, is typical of the second phase of the Baroque style.

The rich soapstone work on the façade, representing Our Lady surrounded by cherubs, dates from the 19th century. Largo do Carmo, s/n.

4. Church of Our Lady of Mercy

Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Mercês em São João del-Rei MG
Church of Our Lady of Mercy in São João del-Rei MG

In 1853, the façade and floor plan of the old chapel, built in the first half of the 18th century and belonging to the Brotherhood of Mercy, made up of the so-called “pardos”, were modified.

The church has elegant and sober lines, with a side tower set back from the body of the building.

Note the magnificent rosewood and leather pews in the choir. Alto das Mercês, s/n.

5. Church of St Francis of Assisi

Igreja de São Francisco de Assis em São João del-Rei MG
Church of St Francis of Assisi

From afar, you can see the magnificent group of imperial palms that frame this Rococo church, one of the most important religious monuments in the country.

The circular building was begun in 1774 according to Aleijadinho’s original design, although the master builder Francisco de Lima Cerqueira made some changes.

Aleijadinho’s work includes the beautiful stone carvings on the façade, the design of the altarpieces and the image of Saint John the Evangelist in the sacristy.

The side altars are in natural colours, as gold was already scarce when they were finished, and a huge Baccarat crystal chandelier illuminates the nave. Square. Frei Orlando, s/n, Centre.

6. Pewter Museum

John Somers, a pewter factory established in São João del-Rei since the 1960s, brings together utilitarian, decorative and religious pieces from Brazil and Europe.

Museu do Estanho em São João del-Rei MG
São João del-Rei Pewter Museum MG

The collection includes objects recovered from European ships that sank off the Brazilian coast in the 17th century. Avenida Leite de Castro, 1150, Fábricas

7. Regional Museum of São João del-Rei

Museu Regional de São João del-Rei em São João del-Rei MG
Regional Museum of São João del-Rei in São João del-Rei MG

Housed in an enormous mansion dating from 1859, the museum has an extensive collection of furniture and objects from the 18th and 19th centuries.

The marble sculptures representing the continents and an exquisitely decorated litter stand out. Severiano Resende Square

President Tancredo Neves Foundation

The memorial to Tancredo Neves, the city’s illustrious son, is located in an 18th century house.

Its nine rooms trace his career through documents, photos, videos and speeches.

Rua Padre Jose Maria Xavier, 7, Centro.

8. Railway Museum

Museu Ferroviário em São João del-Rei MG
Railway Museum of São João del Rei MG

The museum is located in the station of the Oeste-Minas Railway, where you take the train to Tiradentes.

The collection includes parts, equipment and photographs, as well as old carriages and a collection of eleven Baldwin steam locomotives. Av. Hermílio Alves, 366, Centre.

9. Stroll around the city

A mixture of old and new buildings, São João del Rei is a very pleasant city, with good surprises to be discovered during a stroll around the city.

Ponte do Rosário São João del-Rei
Rosário Bridge São João del-Rei

It’s interesting to note the wealth of detail on the facades of some of the colonial buildings in the historic centre, such as

  • Solar dos Neves (Emb. Gastão da Cunha Square, 98).
  • Solar dos Lustosa (pça. Emb. Gastão da Cunha, 54), Solar da Baronesa de Itaverava (Rua Getúlio Vargas, 238), with its beautiful wrought iron balcony.
  • Casa do Barão de Itambé (pça. Barão de Itambé, 17).
  • Rosário Bridge – the “Rosário Bridge” was built in the 1800s, with the Rosário Church on one side and the Tancredo Neves Memorial and São Francisco Church on the other.
Chafariz da Legalidade em São João del-Rei MG
Fountain of Legality in São João del-Rei MG

Also of interest are the more modest one-storey houses, such as those on Rua do Rosário, the chapels of the Passion Stairs scattered throughout the city, and the Fountain of Legality (Praça do Expedicionário), the only example of the stone fountains so common in colonial cities.

Tourist Attractions, History and Architecture of São João del-Rei MG in Minas Gerais

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