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Bilro lace and embroidery are one of the most traditional forms of handicraft in the north-east of Brazil, especially in Ceará.
Bobbin lace is a source of income, distraction and a link between the women who mark the history of the Northeast and Morros da Mariana.
The lace is present in clothes, scarves, towels and other articles, playing an important economic role in the North, Northeast and South regions.
The so-called cushion or bobbin lace is developed by the hands of lace makers, who work with a cushion, cardboard full of holes, thread and bobbins (small wooden pieces similar to spindles).
Brought by the Portuguese and Azorean settlers, this technique is a traditional work in various regions of the Brazilian coast.
The lace is made on a cushion filled with carnauba straw, on which a design is placed that serves as a mould for the bobbin weaving.
To make the embroidery, the lace makers use pieces of wood glued to a coconut typical of the region, known as tucum.
Cardboard is passed down from generation to generation, and some motifs are exclusive to one family. Although lace is not originally a Brazilian product, it has become a local product through acculturation.
The first category of lace includes lace made with bobbin, known as ‘bobbin lace’.
Bilro is a small instrument made up of a short rod with a spherical tip. At the other end of the rod, a quantity of thread is attached which, when handled by the artisan, is attached to the standard design or drawing of the lace to be developed.
The production of this type of lace requires the use of several bobbins, the number of which varies according to the complexity of the design. Bilro lace is produced on cushions placed on the artisan’s lap, or resting on a wooden easel in front of her.
The thread used by bobbin lace makers is cotton, and the predominant colour used is white, both because of tradition and because it is easier on the eyes. The mould used is called a ‘pique’.
The design models are old and are passed down from one generation to the next. In order to obtain new models, the lace-makers often borrow piques from each other or get samples from other places.
Some rare lace makers make the lace from the head, without using a mould.
Createdbobbin lace can take many forms:
- beaks or tips that will be used to decorate the edges of fabrics, or to be applied between two pieces of fabric.
- bedspreads, tablecloths, centrepieces and napkins.
- lace in the form of flowers, hearts, fans, among others, to be applied to fabric to decorate it.
- flaps: whole pieces to be worn over the necklines of camisoles, blouses and dresses.
Bilro lace and embroidery in Ceará
Lace and embroidery are the predominant handicrafts in Ceará and are present in around 104 municipalities.
Historical records indicate that this type of handicraft has existed in Ceará since colonisation, and over time it has spread to the interior and coast of the state, with a greater concentration in the municipalities of Aquiraz, Aracati, Beberibe, Acaraú and Trairi.
The development of handicrafts in the region has the potential to become a strong cultural brand, especially for the Prainha district, located in the municipality of Aquiraz, where bobbin lace stands out as an important craft activity.
Aquiraz, with more than three centuries of existence and an estimated population of 80,000 residents, is a municipality marked by its strong tourist appeal and a history rich in handicrafts, which have become relevant characteristics for the local economy and cultural identity.
Origem da Renda Bilro
A renda de bilro tem uma origem controversa, sendo reivindicada por diferentes regiões da Europa. Sua criação remonta aos séculos XV e XVI, com duas principais versões sobre sua origem:
- Flandres (região hoje dividida entre Bélgica, França e Países Baixos) é considerada uma das possíveis inventoras da renda de bilro. A técnica se espalhou rapidamente pela Europa devido à sua complexidade e beleza, tornando-se uma arte refinada, popular entre as elites.
- A Itália também reivindica a criação da técnica, sendo a pioneira na renda de agulhas, de onde se originou a famosa renda renascença. Esse estilo se expandiu junto com o desenvolvimento das rendas de bilro na Europa, especialmente na região de Veneza.
A técnica foi trazida para o Brasil pelos colonizadores portugueses e açorianos, se espalhando por várias regiões litorâneas, principalmente no Nordeste e Sul. No Brasil, a renda de bilro foi aculturada, adaptando-se às influências locais e se tornando uma prática tradicional em várias comunidades.
