Exploring Capoeira in Salvador: A Martial Art Rich in History

Salvador, Bahia, is one of the cradles of capoeira and offers many opportunities to see this martial art in its most authentic setting. The city is home to many renowned capoeira groups and historic sites where capoeira is regularly practised.

The history of capoeira begins in the 16th century, when Brazil was a colony of Portugal.

História da Capoeira
História da Capoeira

African slave labour was widely used in Brazil, mainly in the engines (sugar-producing farms) of the Northeast of Brazil. Many of these slaves came from the region of Angola, also a Portuguese colony.

In Africa, the Angolans performed many dances to the sound of music.

The well-known Capoeira, which is seen on the streets and hillsides of Salvador, has its history related to oppression and culture. This is how this dance or martial art, whatever you want to call it, came about.

Slavery in Brazil began around 1538 and with the arrival of these Africans, the customs they brought with them were a way of minimising their suffering in the New World.

Capoeira em Salvador da Bahia
Capoeira em Salvador da Bahia

The religious rituals and commemorative dances performed in the homeland already showed the first steps that would culminate in Capoeira.

Its real emergence came soon after the first slave escapes. Thus, the fugitives needed something to defend them and give them the ability to attack the ‘captains of the bush’.

And with ginga movements, jumps and kicks, the once commemorative dance took on the character of a fight.

See also Capoeira: Know Its Origin and Discover Its History

1. Origins of Capoeira

1. African roots

Capoeira has its roots in the African traditions brought to Brazil by slaves, particularly from West Africa. Elements of ritual dances, combat movements and music were integrated into the practice of capoeira, forming a unique art that served as a form of cultural and physical resistance against the oppression of slave masters.

2. Slavery and Resistance

During the 16th to 19th centuries, millions of Africans were brought to Brazil as slaves. Salvador, Bahia, became one of the main points of entry and centres of slavery. In this environment, capoeira emerged as a form of expression, a means of preparing for self-defence and a way of keeping the African cultural heritage alive.

3. Capoeira in the Age of Slavery

Escravos jogando capoeira no Brasil Colônia
Escravos jogando capoeira

Capoeira was so influential during the time of slavery and in the years following abolition that it was even banned under penalty of imprisonment or even deportation. Its practitioners were considered to be unoccupied and disorderly.

The diversity that exists in Bahia is also reflected in capoeira, which has three different styles of fighting, music and singing.

The first style of capoeira emerged along with its development during slavery.

Capoeira Angola, as it is known, corresponds to one of the characteristics of Bantu African culture, which are some of its religious rituals.

4. Quilombos and Capoeira

Quilombos, communities formed by escaped slaves, were important for the development of capoeira. The Quilombo dos Palmares, for example, is known for having been one of the largest centres of slave resistance, where capoeira was practised as a form of military training and cultural preservation.

Although the quilombos were spread across various regions of Brazil, Bahia was one of the main centres of these communities of resistance.

2. Capoeira in Salvador, Bahia

1. Development Centre

Salvador, with its significant Afro-descendant population, was one of the main places where capoeira developed. The city, with its rich African culture, served as fertile ground for the growth of this practice. Over time, capoeira has become an integral part of Bahian culture, reflecting the struggle and resilience of its people.

2. Music and Roda de Capoeira

Capoeira in Salvador is characterised by its roda de capoeira, a circle where practitioners play and demonstrate their skills.

Music, played with traditional instruments such as the berimbau, atabaque and pandeiro, is essential in the roda, guiding the movements and giving rhythm to the game.

The songs usually tell stories of resistance, express longings for freedom and keep the memory of African heritage alive.

3. Capoeira Angola and Capoeira Regional

In Salvador, two main forms of capoeira have gained prominence: Capoeira Angola, which is more traditional and maintains slower movements and rituals, and Capoeira Regional, which was developed by Mestre Bimba (Manoel dos Reis Machado) in the 1930s, introducing faster techniques and a formal teaching structure.

3. Recognition and Dissemination

1. Persecution and Legalisation

During the 19th century, capoeira was persecuted by the authorities, who considered it a subversive and criminal practice.

However, with the passage of time and the recognition of its cultural importance, capoeira was legalised in 1937.

Salvador played a central role in changing public perception of capoeira, helping to transform it from a marginalised practice into a symbol of Brazilian cultural identity.

2. Cultural Heritage

In 2008, the capoeira roda was recognised as Brazil’s Intangible Cultural Heritage by the National Historical and Artistic Heritage Institute (IPHAN).

In 2014, capoeira was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. Salvador continues to be one of the main centres for learning and practising capoeira in the world.

3. International diffusion

From Salvador, capoeira has spread to other parts of Brazil and the world, becoming a global form of expression that transcends cultural and linguistic barriers.

Many capoeira mestres from Bahia have helped spread the art, teaching in various countries and attracting students from all over the world to learn in their home town.

4. Capoeira’s effectiveness

The effectiveness of capoeira came in the form of victory in various battles, whether against the social oppression of the time or in wars such as Paraguay.

The world-famous name comes from the ‘capoeiras’, or plots of land that have had the undergrowth burnt off and are still growing.

It was in these areas that slaves found favourable conditions to fight for their freedom and their lives.

5. Capoeira Angola

The game of capoeira Angola is full of wit, mandinga and elegant movements that follow the rhythm played by the orchestra. One of the best known masters of capoeira Angola is Vicente Ferreira Pastinha – Mestre Pastinha.

A disciple of the African master Benedito, Pastinha dedicated his life to teaching capoeira at his academy in the Pelourinho (Capoeira Angola Sports Centre), dedicating himself above all to undoing the prejudice against capoeira ingrained in society.

In the 1930s here in Bahia, Manoel dos Reis Machado – Mestre Bimba – after 14 years surrounded by the teachings of Capoeira Angola, in view of the shortcomings of this modality, decided to create Luta Regional Baiana.

And today the well-known Capoeira Regional is a perfected line of Capoeira Angola, with around 52 moves.

It was Mestre Bimba who, through his new line of capoeira teaching, managed to include women and later white people from other social classes.

He also demanded that his capoeiras be working or studying, and even demanded that they all play in white uniforms as a form of hygiene.

Capoeira’s history shows that it was yet another way for slaves and their descendants to assert their identity and culture in a prejudiced society.

Brazil’s newest Cultural Heritage is practised in the streets of the Historical Centre of Salvador, where there are several academies, as well as in the traditional capoeira roda at the Mercado Modelo and everywhere else in the city there is a capoeira academy or group waiting with open arms for new and old followers.

6. Three styles of capoeira

Capoeira has three styles which differ in their movements and accompanying musical rhythm.

1. Oldest style

The oldest style, created during the time of slavery, is capoeira angola. The main characteristics of this style are: slow musical rhythm, blows thrown low (close to the ground) and a lot of malice.

2. regional style

The regional style, created by Mestre Bimba, is characterised by a mixture of the malice of capoeira angola and fast movements to the sound of the berimbau.

The blows are quick and dry, and acrobatics are not used.

3. Contemporary style

The third type of capoeira is contemporary, which combines the first two styles.

This last style of capoeira is the most widely practised today. However, it is important to emphasise that there is only one capoeira, Capoeira de Angola, considered the mother of the other styles and closest to the capoeira played by African slaves.

7. Best places to watch capoeira in Salvador

1. Pelourinho

  • Location: Historic centre of Salvador.
  • Description: Pelourinho is one of the most traditional places to watch capoeira in Salvador. Every week, especially on Tuesday nights (known as ‘Terça da Benção’), capoeira rodas are organised in the streets and squares of Pelourinho. These events attract both experienced capoeiristas and beginners, as well as tourists who want to experience authentic Bahian culture.
  • Tips: Look out for the rodas in Praça Terreiro de Jesus and Largo do Pelourinho.

2. Fort of Santo Antônio Além do Carmo (Capoeira Fort)

  • Location: Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, Santo Antônio Além do Carmo.
  • Description: This historic fort houses the Mestre Bimba Foundation and is an important capoeira centre. The place serves as a meeting point for capoeira masters and students, offering regular capoeira rodas, classes and performances. It’s a great place to see quality capoeira and learn about its history.
  • Tips: Check the events programme before you go, as the fort also offers exhibitions and other cultural activities.

3. Capoeira Angola Association – GCAP (Grupo de Capoeira Angola Pelourinho)

  • Location: Rua Gregório de Matos, Pelourinho.
  • Description: Founded by Mestre Moraes, one of the leading capoeira Angola masters, GCAP is a renowned venue where you can watch authentic capoeira Angola rodas. They regularly promote capoeira rodas and cultural events open to the public.
  • Tips: The rodas usually take place on Friday evenings, but it’s good to confirm the time before visiting.

4. Mercado Modelo

  • Location: Commerce, near the Lacerda Elevator.
  • Description: The Mercado Modelo, as well as being an important tourist spot for shopping for handicrafts and souvenirs, is also a place where capoeira performances are often held. Usually, capoeira groups hold exhibitions in the market’s outdoor areas, attracting the attention of tourists.
  • Tips: Pass by the Mercado Modelo during the day and you’ll probably see capoeiristas performing.

5. Mestre Bimba Foundation

  • Location: Rua Gregório de Matos, Pelourinho.
  • Description: Founded in honour of Mestre Bimba, the creator of Capoeira Regional, the foundation promotes classes, rodas and cultural events. It’s a good place to watch Capoeira Regional and learn about the history and evolution of this branch of capoeira.
  • Tips: You can book visits and attend scheduled rodas and events.

6. João Pequeno de Pastinha Academy – CIPCD

  • Location: Forte de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo.
  • Description: Founded by Mestre João Pequeno, one of the greatest representatives of capoeira Angola, this academy is dedicated to teaching and practising traditional capoeira Angola. There are regular rodas and events that are open to the public.
  • Tips: Check out the events diary on site or by contacting us beforehand.

7. Capoeira Classes and Retreats on Beaches

  • Location: Beaches such as Porto da Barra, Itapuã and Ribeira.
  • Description: Some capoeira schools organise classes and rodas outdoors, especially on beaches, where visitors can experience capoeira in a more relaxed atmosphere. These sessions are often open to the public and provide an authentic experience.
  • Tips: Check with local capoeira schools or ask locals for times and locations of rodas on the beaches.

8. Capoeira events and festivals

  • Salvador regularly hosts capoeira festivals and events that attract capoeiristas from all over the world. These events offer an opportunity to see top-level capoeira and learn from recognised mestres. Examples include the ‘Encontro Internacional de Capoeira’ and the ‘Festival de Capoeira da Bahia’.
  • Tips: Check the calendars of local cultural events or consult the websites and social networks of capoeira groups for information on dates and venues.

Conclusion

The history and origins of capoeira in Salvador de Bahia are testimony to the resilience and creativity of enslaved Africans and their descendants. Capoeira has transcended its roots of resistance to become a cultural emblem of Afro-Brazilian identity, pride and heritage, continuing to influence and inspire generations around the world.

Bahia.ws – Tourist Guide to Salvador, Bahia and the north-east

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