Ilhéus, located in the south of Bahia, is recognised worldwide thanks to the works of Jorge Amado, such as Terras do Sem Fim, Cacau, São Jorge de Ilhéus and Gabriela, Cravo e Canela. Rich in history and stunning landscapes, the city is an enchanting destination that attracts visitors from all over Brazil and the world.
100 Kilometres of Beaches and Adventures
With the longest coastline in Bahia, Ilhéus offers around 100 kilometres of paradisiacal beaches with crystal-clear, calm waters, perfect for relaxing or practising sports. Some of the most famous beaches include:
- Praia dos Milionários: Known for its infrastructure of huts and kiosks, it is ideal for families.
- Praia do Cururupe: Offers a spectacular meeting of the river and the sea, with beautiful scenery.
- Olivença Beach: frequented by surfers, it stands out for its waves and youthful atmosphere.
In addition to the beaches, Ilhéus offers unique experiences such as river trips, waterfalls and ecological trails. For the adventurous, there are abseiling, surfing and sport fishing options, making it the perfect destination for thrill-seekers in the midst of nature.
A Literary and Historical Setting
The city is a veritable open-air museum, with its historic centre transporting visitors to the universe of Jorge Amado’s novels. In the heart of Ilhéus, Praça Dom Eduardo is home to cultural icons such as:
- Bar Vesúvio: Immortalised in Gabriela, Cravo e Canela, the bar is a historical and cultural meeting point.
- Bataclan: A former cabaret that was the scene of glamorous parties during the cocoa era. Today, it is a cultural centre and themed restaurant.
Other historic landmarks include the Municipal Theatre, the São Sebastião Cathedral and the Igreja Matriz de São Jorge, the latter dating from 1556 and one of the oldest temples in Brazil.
The Age of Black Gold: The Apogee and Decline of Cocoa
At the beginning of the 20th century, Ilhéus experienced the peak of the cocoa economy, being the largest cocoa exporter in the world. The wealth generated by the monoculture transformed the city, with the cocoa colonels building luxurious palaces and financing public works such as the harbour and electric lighting.
However, from the 1980s onwards, the cocoa economy faced an unprecedented crisis. The ‘witches’ broom”, a fungus that devastated plantations, added to falling prices on the international market, resulting in an economic catastrophe for the region.
Economic and Technological Renaissance
Despite the challenges, Ilhéus has reinvented itself. Today, the city is relying on new technologies to recover its cocoa plantations, using the cloning of seedlings resistant to witches’ broom.
The local economy is also characterised by the technology industry: Ilhéus is responsible for 20% of the national production of electronic components. This modernisation reinforces the city’s role as an industrial hub in the state.
Events and Attractions All Year Round
Ilhéus is a busy destination, with attractions all year round. In the summer, the arrival of cruise ships intensifies tourism, and local events, such as fishing tournaments, fashion fairs and sports competitions, attract a variety of audiences.
Olivença, one of the most famous districts, offers excellent tourist infrastructure and is a meeting point for relaxing, exploring its beaches and getting to know the local culture.
Ilhéus: A Complete Destination
Whether it’s the paradisiacal beaches, the rich historical heritage or the literary connection with Jorge Amado, Ilhéus is a destination that combines nature, culture and modernity. Its history of overcoming obstacles and economic renewal shows the strength and resilience of a city that continues to enchant generations of visitors.
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Tourist attractions in Ilhéus
- Cultural and Historical Treasures of Ilhéus
- Ecological walks in Ilhéus
- Cocoa farms
- Towns around Ilhéus
- Beaches in Ilhéus
1. Ilhéus’ Cultural and Historical Treasures
These sights make Ilhéus one of the richest cities in history, culture and architecture in the south of Bahia.
- São Sebastião Cathedral
- Vesuvius Bar
- Cocoa Square
- Regional Cocoa Museum
- Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy
- Mother Church of St George
- Outeiro de São Sebastião
- Bataclan
- Municipal Theatre
- Jorge Amado House of Culture
- Paranaguá Palace
- Chocolate Factory
1.1. St Sebastian’s Cathedral
- Architecture: Designed by architect Salomão da Silveira in an eclectic style. Construction began in 1931 and was completed in 1967, after more than 30 years.
- Features: The main vault is 48 metres high. Although not considered an architectural masterpiece, it represents a cultural and spiritual landmark for the community.
- History: Inaugurated with great pomp, the cathedral welcomed bishops, cardinals and the Apostolic Nuncio, the Pope’s representative.
- Tourist importance: A symbol of the city of Ilhéus and a must-see.
The Cathedral was designed by the architect Salomão da Silveira in what is considered an eclectic style.
Dom Frei Eduardo José Herberold, the newly arrived bishop, blessed the land in 1931 where the cathedral was to be built, and work began but was soon paralysed.
There was much discussion about the architectural style and its location. To resolve the impasse, Mayor Eusínio Lavigne consulted the director of the School of Fine Arts in Rio de Janeiro, Professor Arquimedes Memória.
This imposing temple of the Catholic Church represented the dream of the Ilheense community for more than thirty years.
The Cathedral symbolises the dream of the bishop who started the work, Dom Eduardo, who was buried in the church itself. To this day, he is idolised and considered a saint by many of the faithful.
São Sebastião Cathedral was inaugurated in 1967 and took over thirty years to complete.
The size of the church is impressive. Its main vault is 48 metres high.
Although it is not considered an architectural masterpiece, it has enormous cultural value for what it represents for local society and for the town’s tourist activity.
According to reports, the ‘wonder of wonders was its inauguration’. That day, the city was filled with bishops and cardinals. Even the Pope’s representative, Apostolic Nuncio Dom Sebastião Baggio, was present.
Teacher Maria de Lurdes Abreu ‘s choir performed Haendel’s “The Messiah”. At the inauguration, the Cathedral looked like a ‘Vatican in miniature’, such was the beauty, pomp and circumstance of the celebration.
The Cathedral of São Sebastião is undoubtedly the symbol of the city of São Jorge dos Ilhéus and one of the most important tourist attractions.
Tourists never fail to visit it, regret when it is closed and take back from Ilhéus a beautiful memory of the church’s grandeur.
1.2. Bar Vesúvio
- Foundation: Opened in 1919 by Italians, the bar retains its original structure.
- Cultural significance: Famous for its association with Jorge Amado’s novel Gabriela, Cravo e Canela.
- Attractions: Live music and historic atmosphere.
1.3. Cocoa Square
- Location: City centre.
- Attractions: Landscaping that recreates a miniature cocoa farm, with 100 types of cocoa trees.
1.4. Regional Cocoa Museum
- Theme: The cocoa cycle and regional history.
- Collection: Photographs, documents, objects and works of art depicting cocoa culture and colonisation.
1.5. Capela de Nossa Senhora da Piedade
- Construction: Started in 1927 and completed in 1929, in neo-Gothic style, based on a French plan adapted by Salomão da Silveira.
- Highlights: Stained glass windows depicting the Seven Sorrows of Mary and the high altar with the image of Our Lady of Mercy.
- Importance: Considered a jewel in the city’s cultural heritage.
In 1927, at the fading lights of Mário Pessoa‘s first government, the Chapel of São Sebastião was ordered to be demolished so that a cathedral could be built in its place.
The construction of the majestic new cathedral gave rise to much discussion about the design and location.
The Nossa Senhora da Piedade Institute contributes significantly to the development of Ilhéus and the region, educating young people for social life.
It all began with the invitation made in 1916 by the 1st Bishop of Ilhéus, Mgr Manuel de Paiva, to Mother Maria Thaís Paillart to found a school for girls, filling the gap in formal education in the region.
Already installed in the building that housed the convent and boarding school, work began on the construction of the Chapel of Our Lady of Piety. In 1927, construction began on the chapel, a beautiful example of neo-Gothic architecture.
The builder Salomão da Silveira adapted the architectural plan commissioned in France by Mother Thaís, and the work was completed in 1929.
Thanks to campaigns involving the whole region, it was possible to erect the chapel, which has become a symbol of Gothic architecture in the state of Bahia.
Consecrated on 31 August 1929, the Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy has been celebrating masses, baptisms and weddings for 81 years, making it a spiritual and cultural landmark for the city.
Many lives have been united under the blessings of the Pious Mother, who watches over her children from the altar.
The highlight of the chapel is its high altar, with the Image of Sorrow, representing Our Lady of Mercy at the foot of the cross, cradling the dead Christ in her lap.
The chapel also stands out for its beautiful stained glass windows, which provide the temple with perfect lighting and depict the Seven Sorrows of Mary.
The Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy is undoubtedly a jewel in our city’s built cultural heritage.
1.6. Igreja Matriz de São Jorge
- Origin: Built at the end of the 17th century, with Jesuit influences.
- Architectural features: Nave, chancel, sacristy, side aisle and pyramidal tower.
- Collection: Sacred images such as St George, Our Lady of the Rosary and rare pieces in the Museum of Sacred Art.
- History: One of the most important monuments in Ilhéus.
The Igreja Matriz de São Jorge in Ilhéus dates from the late 17th century, according to IPAC.
It is a church of significant historical and architectural interest, with a nave, chancel, side aisle, sacristy and tower on the left.
The façade has two bodies, the main one framed by cornerstones and a cornice, with a beautiful doorway flanked by two doors on the ground floor and two windows at choir level.
The tower is pyramidal in shape, with corbels at the corners and a full arch.
The cornerstones, cornices, door surrounds, windows and arrowheads are made of stonework. The interior features a crossing arch, niches and a pulpit basin, also in sandstone.
The ceiling is round at the corners of the nave and vaulted in the chancel.
The neoclassical high altar is incomplete. Among the images in the church are those of St George, a crucifix, Our Lady of the Rosary and St Peter.
In the sacristy and the side aisle, which is used as the Museum of Sacred Art, there are pieces of furniture and sacred art. Highlights include a saint’s head, images of St Michael, Our Lady of the Snows (16th century), St Anthony, St Ignatius and St Caetano (17th century), as well as silver implements.
Typological data
The church is a refined construction from the late 17th century.
Typical of this period are the corner surrounds and the pyramidal tower, first used in the Cairu Convent (1660).
Similar enclosures can be found in Santa Teresa, in the Jesuit House of Prayer, in the Berquó and Sete Mortes manor houses in Salvador, and in the Church of São Brás in Santo Amaro.
Another archaic element are the niches on the sides of the crossing arch, also seen in the Olinda College and the Ajuda and Belém churches in Cachoeira. These elements and the refinement of the construction suggest the intervention of a Jesuit architect.
Architectural History
According to IPAC (1988, p. 224), after the arrival of the first Portuguese and the foundation of the town of São Jorge, Francisco Romero established the settlement on the hill of São Sebastião.
In 1556, the parish of São Jorge was created by Dom Pero Fernandes Sardinha, and the first church began to be built by the first inhabitants of the captaincy, which was only completed in 1572.
The Parish Church of São Jorge was built after the Convent of Cairu, dating from 1660.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the church’s right sacristy was demolished to widen a street. The original layout of the church was T-shaped, characteristic of the 17th century.
The Igreja Matriz de São Jorge is considered the most important historical monument in the municipality. The Museum of Sacred Art, located next to the church, contains beautiful, ancient and rare pieces.
1.7. Outeiro de São Sebastião
- View:Viewpoint with a view of the three islets that gave the town its name: Pedra de Ilhéus, Pedra do Rapa and Pedra de Tapitanga.
- Attractions: Landmark of the Foundation and the Chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes, in a bucolic setting.
1.8. Bataclan
The venue in question is the Bataclan, an emblematic space in the history and culture of Ilhéus, which became famous thanks to the novel Gabriela, Cravo e Canela, by Jorge Amado.
- During the Cocoa Era, it was one of the places most frequented by the cocoa barons, standing out as a meeting place for the local elite.
- It functioned as a mixture of cabaret, casino and ballroom, and was famous for its luxurious and relaxed atmosphere.
- The ban on gambling in Brazil in 1946 led to the closure of the establishment, which remained in ruins for decades.
Restoration and the present
- Today, the Bataclan has been restored, reclaiming its role as an important tourist and cultural landmark in Ilhéus.
- The space has several attractions, including:
- A cybercafé.
- A restaurant that values regional cuisine.
- An exhibition room dedicated to art and culture.
- The iconic ‘Maria Machadão’s room’, a recreation of the environment of the famous character in the novel.
The Bataclan is today a symbol of Ilhéus’ historical and literary wealth, keeping alive the memory of a remarkable period in the city, perpetuated by the work of Jorge Amado.
1.9. Municipal Theatre
The Cine-Teatro Ilhéus was inaugurated on 22 December 1932 as a result of a tax incentive granted by the then municipal intendant Eusinio Lavigne.
It was inaugurated as the largest theatre in the city’s history, with a screening of the Fox Filmes film Honrarás tua Mãe.
The mayor, the owner Celso Martins and all of local society were present. The newspaper Diário da Tarde pointed out: ‘Ilhéus has been transformed into a kind of artistic village with an extraordinary number of theatre men and women who have naturally come here attracted by the land’s reputation for prosperity.’
Since its inauguration, the cine-theatre has played an active role in the leisure activities of the people of Ilhéus and in building local culture. In that decade, the city had as many as six cinemas.
When it was built, the theatre had a capacity of around a thousand people. Its cinema screen featured a great novelty: it allowed the sound of the tapes, emitted by the differential horn installed behind it, to pass through without being intercepted.
Renovation and modernisation
The ruined building was donated by the Rehem da Silva family to the City Hall and rebuilt by the then mayor, Jabes Ribeiro. On 10 July 1986, the public packed the new theatre to see a performance by Balé Corpo from Belo Horizonte.
The Municipal Theatre of Ilhéus has been renovated, with a modern structure inside, while the original façade has been kept to preserve its history.
Current structure
The current Municipal Theatre has
- An art gallery and foyer.
- Modern scenery, lighting, sound, acoustics and air conditioningequipment.
- A stage area equipped with the latest scenic equipment.
The Municipal Theatre of Ilhéus is today a landmark of regional culture, preserving its historical memory while offering a high quality structure for artistic and cultural events.
1.10. Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado
- History: The place where Jorge Amado was born and spent part of his childhood.
- Collection: Documents, photos and objects related to the writer’s life and work.
- Importance: A reference point for fans of the author and for regional literature.
The farm was called Auricídia, which became the name of the wife of a character in the author’s book Terras do Sem Fim.
In 1914, when little Jorge was less than two years old, the Cachoeira River raged, causing one of the biggest floods in its history.
As a result, many people lost their cocoa plantations, including Colonel João Amado de Farias, the writer’s father, who moved with his family to the neighbourhood of Pontal, in the bay of the same name, on the outskirts of the city of Ilhéus.
Impoverished and having lost everything, they set up a clog factory, earning a living from the small business.
With his savings, João Amado bought a poor house in the same place, which had only one door and one window.
Building the Palacete
After a while, João Amado won the first prize in the Federal Lottery and had the beautiful 582 m² palace built on the site of the modest shack, which today houses the Jorge Amado House of Culture.
Construction began in 1920 under the command of Maximiano Souza Coelho and was inaugurated in 1926.
The house has no particular style and is considered eclectic, with a mixture of neoclassical and colonial elements, reflecting a combination of styles.
Architectural details
- The flooring is all original, made of jacaranda and vinhático, forming bicoloured squares, a work widely used at the time.
- The door flags are made of cast iron in the French neoclassical style.
- There are also coloured glass flags in the colonial style.
- The marble used in the house came from Carrara in Italy, easily acquired when foreign ships passed through Ilhéus.
- The tiles that decorate the veranda are in English art-nouveau, with nautical and floral motifs, such as boats and orchids.
It was common to use jacaranda in the houses, especially in the windows, as the fabric curtains, all of which were foreign, were unfeasible due to their high cost.
The chandelier in the main room is made of glass, not real crystal, but it belongs to the same era.
Transformation into a House of Culture
In 1988, the house was donated to the municipality by the state. Listed as a heritage site, it was inaugurated on 27 June 1997 in the presence of Jorge Amado himself and his family.
In this house, Jorge Amado wrote his book The Country of Carnival, perpetuating the cultural and historical importance of the place.
1.11. Palácio do Paranaguá
- Architecture: Built in the neoclassical style.
- Current use: Headquarters of the town hall.
- Attraction: Represents the political and administrative history of Ilhéus.
On 20 January 1898, the building’s foundation stone was laid by Lt. Col. Domingos Adami de Sá, on the site of the former Jesuit house, the ruins of which were completely demolished.
On 22 December 1907, the Paço was inaugurated by the same intendant, according to a commemorative plaque on the façade.
The decoration and painting work was done by the Italian artist Oreste Sarcelli, and the acetylene lighting by the Vita brothers.
The building has a constructed area of 1060 m², is located in Praça J.J. Seabra and occupies the highest part of the square, in the historic and commercial centre of the city; it has four façades.
IPAC description (1988, p. 225): ‘Building of relevant architectural interest, built for Municipal headquarters. It has a rectangular floor plan, developed over two floors, around a large central vestibule, where the imperial staircase is located.’
The building has undergone several renovations over its almost 100 years of existence. Between 1912 and 1916, the building underwent a major refurbishment under the government of Intendant Colonel Antonio Pessoa, including the installation of sanitary appliances and the extension and repair of the furniture.
In 1919, despite having been built for only a short time, it threatened to collapse, which is why the municipal offices were transferred to the School Group.
On 2 July 1923, the building was refurbished and reopened to the public by the Intendant, Colonel Eustáquio de Souza Bastos. The floors were replaced by concrete slabs and the original roof was replaced by three parallel roofs.
The Paço Municipal building was built between 1898 and 1907, at the height of the cocoa economy. It was one of the most luxurious, best decorated and furnished public buildings in the state at the time.
The upper floor housed the council chamber, the quartermaster’s office, the secretariat, the engineering section, the noble hall with mural paintings and the courtrooms.
On the ground floor were the civil and criminal judges’ chambers, the medical centre, the barracks and the jail, according to Borges de Barros (1981).
Still according to the same author, its architecture seems to have been inspired by the Paço dos Governadores in Salvador, before its last reconstruction in 1912, and of the same neoclassical inspiration.
The building’s name, Palácio Paranaguá, is a tribute to the president of the Province of Bahia who, on 28 June 1881, by Provincial Law No. 2,187, elevated the town of São Jorge dos Ilhéus to the category of city, and it remains with the same name.
The marble statue in front of it, also neoclassical, represents Sappho, an ancient Greek poet born on the island of Lesbos.
1.12. Chocolate Factory
- Experience: Tour of the stages of chocolate production, from cocoa to the final product.
- Gastronomic attraction: Tasting and sale of local products.
2. Ecological tours in Ilhéus
- Ilhéus – Itacaré Park Road
- Enchanted Lagoon
- Sloth Recovery Centre
2.1. Ilhéus – Itacaré Park Road
- Length: 65 kilometres of incredible landscapes.
- Viewpoints: Offer panoramic views of beaches and waterfalls, especially on the Serra Grande stretch.
- Sargi Beach (Km 30): Fine sand, warm and transparent waters, with inns and restaurants nearby.
- Pé de Serra Beach: A perfect viewpoint for photographs.
- Infrastructure: Cycle path that leads to the entrance to Lagoa Encantada.
2.2. Lagoa Encantada
- Location: Environmental conservation area in the Atlantic Forest.
- Extension: 14 km² with floating islands and fascinating local stories about supernatural beings.
- Nature: Rich in tree species and biodiversity.
- Caldeiras da Almada: Perfect for bathing.
- Apepique Waterfall: Popular for abseiling.
2.3. Sloth Recovery Centre
- Objective: Reintegration of the sloth into its natural habitat.
- Ideal for families and children who are delighted to see sloths interacting in their environment.
- An opportunity to learn about environmental conservation and the importance of protecting this species.
These tours offer a perfect mix of adventure, contact with nature and learning, making Ilhéus a unique destination for ecotourism.
3. Cocoa farms
These cocoa farm tours offer a rich combination of history, culture and direct contact with cocoa, one of the greatest symbols of Ilhéus’ economy and literature.
- Yrerê Farm
- Primavera Farm
- Renascer Farm
- Rio do Braço District
3.1. Yrerê Farm
- Activities:
- Walks on trails through the cacao forest.
- Visit to the big house and the cocoa processing process.
- Tasting of traditional homemade sweets.
- Special tip: In June, visitors can take part in lively forrós on the farm.
3.2. Primavera Farm
- Features:
- Historical documents and old objects that reflect the farm’s past.
- Opportunity to experience daily life on the cocoa plantation and walk along trails.
- Iconic setting for the filming of the soap opera Renascer.
- Infrastructure: Restaurant at the headquarters and regional shows.
3.3. Renascer Farm
- Attractions:
- Also used as the setting for the soap opera Renascer.
- Exuberant nature with waterfalls and rapids perfect for a refreshing swim.
3.4. Rio do Braço District
- History:
- Former centre of commerce driven by the wealth generated by cocoa.
- The Ilhéus-Ubaitaba railway, built by the British in 1905, was essential for the transport of goods and passengers.
- Decline: With the outbreak of ‘witches’ broom’, which devastated the plantations, the district went into decline.
- Current attractions:
- Ruins of the houses from the early 20th century.
- Traces of the railway.
- Scenery from the soap opera Renascer.
- Revitalisation:
- Named Jorge Amado Theme Park in honour of the writer, who found inspiration in the region for his works.
4. Towns around Ilhéus
- Olivença
- Rio do Engenho
4.1. Olivença
- Tororomba Spa:
- Famous for its iron-rich mineral waters that moisturise, tone and provide a natural tan.
- Structure with natural pools, artificial waterfall, bar and restaurant.
- Historical attractions:
- Church of Nossa Senhora da Escada (1700): Houses a beautiful baroque image of the Virgin.
- Events:
- Festa da Puxada de Mastro de São Sebastião (second Sunday in January): A popular celebration that brings together locals and tourists.
- Beaches and surfing:
- Beaches popular with surfers throughout the year.
- Surfing championships from May to November.
4.2 Rio do Engenho
- Historical Heritage:
- Chapel of Our Lady of Santana (1550): Considered the third rural chapel in Brazil.
- Ruins of the Engenho de Santana: Site of the first slave revolts in Brazil.
- Access and Nature:
- It can be reached by boat, sailing through the mangroves, following the route of the first Portuguese colonisers.
- Ideal for canoeing and rafting on the river’s rapids.
- Festivities:
- Chapel of Our Lady of Santana, celebrated in the second half of July.
- Gastronomy:
- Highlights include moqueca de pitu and catado de siri, unmissable local delicacies.
5. Ilhéus beaches
The beaches of Ilhéus offer a wide variety of landscapes and experiences for different tastes, from deserted and wild beaches to urbanised and busy options.
- Wilder and more natural beaches
- Urban beaches with good infrastructure
- Beaches with different characteristics
Below is a summary of the main characteristics of each:
5.1 Wildest and most natural beaches
- Praia do Norte: Extensive, wild, with a green sea and paradisiacal stretches such as Pé de Serra and Ponta do Ramo. Ideal for surfing and fishing.
- Cururupe Beach: Straight, historic (scene of the Battle of the Swimmers), with coconut palms, soft sand and strong waves. Good for relaxing and exploring history.
- Back Door Beach: Favoured by surfers, with high waves. Dangerous for swimming, but excellent for adrenaline seekers.
- Batuba Beach: Similar to Back Door, with strong waves and beautiful scenery. It has facilities for holidaymakers, but is also more suitable for surfing.
5.2. Urban beaches or beaches with good infrastructure
- Praia do Marciano: Urban, with reefs, stalls and hotels. Popular for surfing.
- Praia do Malhado: In front of the Petrobrás terminal, but generally unsuitable for swimming.
- Praia da Avenida: Extensive, with urban design, bars and sports courts. Stretches unsuitable for swimming.
- Praia do Cristo: Very popular for water sports and water activities.
- Praia da Concha: Small and quiet, good for relaxing, with coconut palms and native vegetation.
- Millionaires’ Beach: The most famous, with calm waters, coconut palms and many options of bars and restaurants.
5.3. Beaches with different characteristics
- Praia Boca da Barra: The mouth of the Almada River, with little shacks and a fishing village. One stretch is known as São Miguel Beach.
- Praia do Sul: Straights and reefs, with occasional surfing and fishing tournaments.
These beaches show the diversity of the Ilhéus coastline, which combines natural beauty, history, culture and sports.
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Tourist Guide to Ilhéus in Bahia
