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The Chapada Diamantina is a region of mountains in the centre of the state of Bahia, where almost all the rivers of the Paraguaçu, Jacuípe and Rio de Contas basins originate.

These streams spring from the peaks, slide down the terrain in beautiful rivulets, tumble into bubbling waterfalls and form transparent natural pools.

National Park and Biodiversity

The Chapada Diamantina National Park is administered by the Chico Mendes Institute for Biodiversity Conservation (ICMBio). The region is rich in exuberant vegetation, made up of species from the semi-arid caatinga and the highland flora, especially:

• Bromeliads,
• Orchids,
• evergreens.

Main Attractions

The Chapada offers a multitude of attractions that cause astonishment and ecstasy, such as:

• Cachoeira da Fumaça: With a free fall of 380 metres, it is the highest in Bahia.
• Poço Encantado (Enchanted Well): One of the most breathtaking sights in the region.

Other activities include:

• Visiting caves;
• Bathing in waterfalls;
• Trekking on old prospectors’ trails;
• Horse riding;
• Practising adventure sports.

Communities and High Points

The Chapada Diamantina is home to esoteric and alternative communities, such as the Vale do Capão. The two highest points in Bahia are located in the region:

• Pico do Barbado: At 2,033 metres, it is the highest point in the Northeast.
• Pico das Almas: At 1,958 metres.

A unique experience for tourists

Walking, breathing in the fresh air and admiring the landscape, is the main activity for tourists visiting the Chapada. The verdant places hold surprises such as:

• Crystal-clear waters;
• Colourful sands;
• Beautiful hills, flowers and vegetables that enchant with their beauty and vigour.

Igatu and its Ruins

In Igatu, the curiosity of the ruins of the ghost town stands out, built with stones that form the walls of small caves.

See the Chapada Diamantina map

Map of Chapada Diamantina’s Trails and Tourist Spots

See also Geography and Climate Regions of the Northeast

Videos about Chapada Diamantina Relief, Fauna and Flora

The emergence of the Chapada Diamantina

The Chapada Diamantina was not always an imposing mountain range.

Around 1.7 billion years ago, the Espinhaço sedimentary basin was formed from a series of extensive depressions filled with materials expelled from volcanoes, wind-blown sands and gravel from their edges.

On top of these depressions, sediments accumulated in a basin-shaped region, influenced by the action of rivers, winds and seas.

Subsequently, a phenomenon known as uplift occurred, which raised the layers of sediment above sea level due to epigean forces. This process caused a slow and gradual uplift over millions of years.

The countless layers of sandstones, conglomerates and limestones currently exposed in the Chapada Diamantina represent primitive sedimentary deposits. The current landscape is the result of the action of agents such as wind, water and tectonic forces over geological time.

In the streets and pavements of the region’s towns, the slabs with undulating surfaces reveal marks left by the winds and waters that shaped the ancient sands.

Geography of the Chapada Diamantina

Around 1.8 billion years ago, where the sertão is today, the region was bathed by the waters of the sea. The Chapada Diamantina remained covered by the ocean until a clash between tectonic plates created the deep cracks and depressions that mould its current geology.

Thus began the formation of the sedimentary mountain ranges, through the action of winds, rivers and seas, which brought together particles of different rocks and designed the local landscapes. This gave rise to the Espinhaço Basin, characterised by elevations of varying shapes.

The region is geographically divided into several mountain ranges, such as the Serra de Rio de Contas, Bastião, Mangabeira, das Almas and Sincorá. These mountains act as water dividers between the basins of the São Francisco, Rio de Contas and Paraguaçu rivers, which flow into the Atlantic Ocean.

The Chapada Diamantina is located in the Serra do Espinhaço, a mountain range situated on the Atlantic plateau, which stretches across the states of Bahia and Minas Gerais. Its terrain dates back to the Proterozoic and contains rich deposits of iron, manganese, bauxite, diamonds and gold.

The name Serra do Espinhaço was given by the German geologist Ludwig von Eschwege in the 19th century. This mountain range is responsible for dividing the drainage networks of the São Francisco River and the rivers that flow directly into the Atlantic Ocean. Recognised as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the region is one of the richest on the planet in terms of biological diversity.

The Serra do Espinhaço is considered the only mountain range in Brazil due to its uniqueness. In constant movement for over a billion years, it is a long, narrow mountain range marked by peaks and valleys. About 1,000 kilometres long, it stretches from the Iron Quadrangle in the north of Minas Gerais to the south of Bahia, with a width of between 50 and 100 kilometres.

On 27 June 2005, UNESCO declared the Serra do Espinhaço the seventh Brazilian biosphere reserve, highlighting its ecological importance and the need for protection. More than half of the endangered species of animals and plants in Minas Gerais are located in this region, especially in the Serra do Cipó, which is home to the largest number of endemic species of Brazilian flora.

African, European and indigenous roots mix in the Espinhaço, leaving their mark on the customs and cultural manifestations of the local communities. The region’s natural beauty and culture create ideal conditions for the development of ecotourism.

Among the municipalities cut by the Serra do Espinhaço are Porteirinha, Mato Verde, Espinosa and Olhos-d’Água, in Minas Gerais, and Lençóis, Mucugê, Andaraí, Iraquara, Bonito, Ibicoara, Rio de Contas and Igatu, in Bahia.

1. Location, Boundaries, Explanation of Boundaries and Size of Chapada Diamantina

Located in the centre-south part of the Caatinga biome, the region has an elongated north-south ‘Y’ shape, following the alignment of the Chapada Diamantina watershed.

It is entirely surrounded by the Southern Sertaneja Depression ecoregion, with boundaries defined mainly by changes in relief, altitude and soil type. This area represents the highest part of the Caatinga biome and stands out for its unique characteristics.

Size: 50,610 km2.

2. Geo-environmental units of the ZANE

The following geographical units are present in this ecoregion:

• Massifs and high mountains (S2)
• Reworked surfaces (E4, E5, E8)
• Chapada Diamantina (C1, C3, C6, C8)
• Karst surfaces (J4)

These units reflect the diversity of landforms and geological features that make up the region.

3. Soil Types, Geomorphology, Relief and Altitude Variation

The Chapada Diamantina is the highest ecoregion of the caatinga, with altitudes predominantly above 500 metres.

3.1. Relief and Altitude

The relief has striking characteristics:

• Residual massifs
• Rocky tops
• Steep slopes
• Narrow, deep valleys
• Large flat areas at high altitudes
• High, narrow and elongatedmountains

Altitudes vary from 200 metres to 1,800 metres, with Pico do Barbado standing out as the highest point in the region at 2,033 metres.

3.2. Soils by Area

3.2.1. In the massifs and high mountains

• Litholic soils: shallow, stony, with low fertility and extensive rocky outcrops.

3.2.2. On flat tops

• Latosols: Deep, well-drained, acidic and of low fertility

3.3. Reworking and Eastern Soils

In the east of the Chapada Diamantina, the relief has undergone intense reworking, resulting in:

• Dissected relief with deep valleys
• Altitudes ranging from 200 metres to 800 metres

The main soil types in these areas are

• Podzolic: moderately deep, well drained, clay texture and medium fertility
• Latosols

Hydrographical importance

The Chapada Diamantina is an extremely important region, as it contains the headwaters of several rivers that flow into the Southern Sertaneja Depression, playing an essential role in water supply and regional biodiversity.

4. Climate

4.1. Western part

Climate: Warm to tropical.

Precipitation:

• In the lower areas: annual average of 500 mm.
• In the higher parts: average of over 1,000 mm.

Rainy season: October to April.

4.2. Eastern part

• Climate: Tropical to semi-arid.
• Rainfall: Annual average of 678 mm to 866 mm.
• Rainy season: November to May.

4.3. Major Characteristic Processes or Influences

Altitude gradients

• These include the highest points in the Northeast, such as Pico do Barbado (2,033 m).
• They form ‘islands’ of rupestrian grasslands, characterised by areas of specific vegetation separated by lower valleys with a predominance of caatinga.
• This process of altitudinal isolation favours speciation, i.e. the emergence of new species adapted to the unique conditions of these environments.

5. Temperature gradient (the lowest temperatures in the semi-arid region)

Great influence of long dry periods, contrasting with annual rainfall of over 1,000 mm (reaching 2,000 mm in some years, the highest rainfall in the semi-arid region) and the formation of fog throughout the year.

It is home to the headwaters of most of the perennial rivers of the Southern Sertaneja Depression, and is the great watershed of that ecoregion.

Elements of the flora are influenced by the Serra do Espinhaço and the presence of caves is very important for the fauna.

6. Types of Vegetation

A mosaic of vegetation that includes the highly diverse caatinga (below 1,000 metres above sea level), cerrado( savannah), campos rupestres ( rupestrian grasslands ) and different types of forest (from the driest to the wettest).

Above 1,000 metres

• Where there are more rocky outcrops, rupestrian grasslands predominate (associated with quartzite).
• Where the soil is sandier, the cerrado predominates (associated with podzolic soils).

The forests, which predominate on the slopes, are more closely associated with granites and gneisses and become wetter as the altitude increases.

The caatinga forests are of the deciduous seasonal forest type, characterised by many thorny trees, especially of the Acacia and Mimosa genera, as well as an abundance of Cactaceae and Bromeliaceae.

Some notable species include:

• Umbuzeiro (Spondias tuberosa Arruda)
• Juazeiro (Zizyphus joazeiro Mart.)

The flora is very diverse, with many endemic genera and species.

The caatinga occupies a large part of the ecoregion at altitudes of up to 1,000 metres, where it is interspersed with high-altitude savannahs.

The caatinga also predominates to the north, in the valleys of the Furnas River, Contas River and Paraguaçu River, as well as in the westernmost part of the mountains, where the altitude creates a barrier that prevents rainfall from passing through.

7. Examples of Typical Taxonomic Groups

7.1. Flora

The Chapada’s caatingas have endemic genera belonging to the Leguminosae, Cactaceae, Sterculiaceae, Scrophulariaceae, Martyniaceae and Compositae families.

The rupestrian grasslands are home to a completely different flora from the caatinga, but they also have many species endemic to the Chapada.

Endemic genera:

1. Rayleya (Sterculiaceae) – Genus with one species, found only in Andaraí.
2. Mysanthus (Leguminosae) – Genus with one species, restricted to the southern part of the Chapada.
3. Heteranthia (Scrophulariaceae) – Genus with one species, found in marshy areas in the east of the Chapada.
4. Holoregmia (Martyniaceae) – Genus with one species, distributed from Rio de Contas to Anajé.

Endemic species:

1. Mimosa irrigua Barneby (Leguminosae).
2. Chamaecrista eitenorum var. regana I. & B. (Leguminosae).
3. Portulaca werdermanii Poelln. (Portulacaceae) – Found in Morro do Chapéu and Mucugê.
4. Melocactus glaucescens Buin. & Bred. (Cactaceae) – Restricted to Morro do Chapéu.
5. Arrojadoa bahiensis (U. Brawn & Esteves, M. P. Taylor & Eggli) – Belongs to the Cactaceae family.
6. Pilocarpus trachylophus Holmes (Rutaceae) – Occurs in Minas Gerais (MG), Bahia (BA) and Ceará (CE).

7.2. Estimated Conservation Status

The area, which is very fragile, faces threats from:

• Coffee farming in the flat areas.
• Livestock farming, which impacts local ecosystems.
• Mining and quarrying, which causes significant degradation.

Other concerns include

• The growing pressure of tourism in various guises.
• The extraction of ornamental species, such as orchids, evergreens and bromeliads, which affects the region’s biodiversity.

7.3. Paraguaçu River in Chapada Diamantina

The Chapada Diamantina is home to the Paraguaçu River, the largest genuinely Bahian river.

Its springs are diamondiferous, its banks fertile, it is very fishy throughout its length and navigable from the towns to its mouth.

It was once the main transport and communication route for the entire region.

Origin of the name

The name ‘Paraguaçu “ is of Tupi origin and means ”big sea’, derived from the terms pará (‘sea’) and gûasu (‘big’).

In colonial Brazil, it was recorded under various spellings: Paraguaçu, Paraoçu, Paraossu, Peroguaçu, Perasu, Peoassu and Peruassu.

History

• In 1504, the French were already trading with the natives along the Paraguaçu River.
• The official discovery is attributed to Cristóvão Jacques, commander of the first coastguard expedition in 1526, who fought against the smuggling of brazilwood on the coast.
• Friar Vicente do Salvador, the first Brazilian historian, reports that Jacques found and sank two French ships trading with the natives in the lower reaches of the river.

Course of the Paraguaçu River

• Source: Morro do Ouro, Serra do Cocal, municipality of Barra da Estiva, in the Chapada Diamantina.
• Route: Passes through the municipalities of Ibicoara, Mucugê, Andaraí, receiving the Santo Antônio River.
• Direction: It heads west and then east, dividing municipalities such as Itaeté, Itaberaba, Cruz das Almas, São Félix and Cachoeira, until it flows into Todos os Santos Bay, between Maragogipe and Saubara.

The river runs for 600 km and is navigable on its lower course, from its mouth to the towns of Cachoeira and São Félix, passing through Maragogipe (46 km).

Tributaries and Natural Resources

• Main tributaries: Santo Antônio, Tupim, Capivari (São Félix) and do Peixe.
• Waterfalls: Bananeiras stands out.

Aquatic fauna:

• Along the river: Tucunarés, traíras and piaus.
• In the lower reaches: Prawns, sea bass and mullet.

Current Use and Importance

With the construction of the Pedra do Cavalo Dam, the river has gained importance in:

• Flood control ;
• Water supply for the Recôncavo, Feira de Santana and Greater Salvador.

Chapada Diamantina and the Paraguaçu River

To get to know the Chapada Diamantina in all its exuberance, we suggest itineraries that include:

• Main attractions in and around the National Park: Waterfalls, caves, canyons, mountains and historic towns.
• Adventure tourism: Activities for beginners and experienced hikers, with short and long trails.

The Iphan-listed towns of Lençóis, Mucugê, Igatu and Andaraí preserve colonial houses from the late 19th century. Lençóis stands out as the gateway to the Chapada, offering a rich cultural diversity and unique charm.

Bahia.ws is the largest tourist guide in Bahia and Salvador.

Chapada Diamantina tourist guide