São Luís do Maranhão, often just called São Luís, is an enchanting destination in the north-eastern region of Brazil.

Known for its rich cultural heritage, historic architecture and vibrant traditions, São Luís offers a unique mix of attractions for tourists.

Saint Louis was the first name of São Luís, a city in the western part of the island of the same name, which already hints at its origins.

In 1612, the year of the French invasion, the noblemen Daniel de La Touche, lord of La Ravardière, and François de Rasilly, lord of Rasilly and Aunelles, landed here and named the place in honour of King Louis XIII.

French rule over St Louis was short-lived: by 1615, it was back in Portuguese hands.

From then on, the capital of Maranhão would become increasingly Lusitanian – an influence visible in many aspects, from the original layout, designed by engineer Francisco Frias de Mesquita (1578-1645), to the tiled façades of the buildings in the historic centre.

Cut through by rivers and with the sea enveloping it, São Luís has undergone a long and successful recovery plan, the government’s Reviver project.

The inauguration of the José Sarney Bridge in 1970 contributed to urban revitalisation by integrating the new part of the city into the centre, where there are modern buildings and luxury hotels.

To walk around São Luís is to move between these two sides, between the past and the present.

VIDEOS – TOURIST ATTRACTIONS IN SÃO LUIS DO MARANHÃO

SÃO LUIS DO MARANHÃO HAS 2 MAIN PARTS

• modern part
• historical part (Historic Centre)

These two areas reflect different eras and styles of urban development, offering a diverse experience to visitors.

MODERN PART OF SÃO LUÍS DO MARANHÃO

Stretching over the River Anil, the José Sarney Bridge marks the beginning of the expansion of the “New São Luís”.

Without the attractions of the historic centre, this part of the city stands out for its high concentration of skyscrapers, luxury hotels, good restaurants and busy shopping centres.

Three other bridges were built after the José Sarney bridge, which today connect the oldest part of the capital to the modern neighbourhoods – Ponta d’Areia, São Francisco and Renascença, among others – where São Luís’ elite live.

The urban beaches don’t attract much attention: the waters are dark.

The modern part of São Luís reflects the urban growth and expansion of the city in recent times.

This area is characterised by:

• Contemporary Infrastructure: The modern part has wide avenues, shopping centres, luxury hotels, and planned residential areas.
• Urban Beaches: Some of the most popular beaches, such as Praia de São Marcos, Praia do Calhau, and Praia da Ponta d’Areia, are located in this part of the city. These beaches are known for their tourist facilities, restaurants and vibrant nightlife.
• Modern Neighbourhoods: Neighbourhoods such as Renascença, Cohama and Turu are examples of more recent and developed areas, with entertainment options, shopping centres and a variety of services.
• Commercial and Entertainment Centres: The modern part is the centre of the city’s commercial and leisure activities, with many shopping centres, cinemas, restaurants and bars.

HISTORICAL PART (HISTORICAL CENTRE) OF SÃO LUÍS DO MARANHÃO

Recognised as one of the greatest collections of Portuguese urban and architectural tradition in Brazil, São Luís’ historic centre is more than a museum in the open air.

Luís is more than an open-air museum: it’s a living heritage where people live, work and circulate.

Most of the museums, restaurants, bars and shops in the capital’s historic area can be found near the Praia Grande market and the railway terminal, between the old streets of Trapiche, Giz, Estrela and Portugal.

The best time to visit them is in the afternoon, when the main attractions are open – although the tiled façades of the colonial buildings alone are worth the trip.

The historic part of São Luís, also known as the Historic Centre, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its rich cultural and architectural heritage.

This area is characterised by:

• Colonial Architecture: The colonial buildings, many of which are adorned with Portuguese tiles, are a trademark of this area. The narrow cobbled streets and colourful buildings transport visitors back to the colonial period.
• Monuments and Museums: This is where many of the city’s museums and historical sites are located, such as the Palácio dos Leões, the Museu Histórico e Artístico do Maranhão, and the Casa de Nhozinho.
• Squares and Churches: The squares, such as Praça Benedito Leite and Praça Nauro Machado, are places for social and cultural gatherings. The historic churches, such as Igreja da Sé and Igreja do Desterro, are also important points of interest.
• Culture and Festivities: The Historic Centre is the heart of cultural festivities, including Bumba Meu Boi, Tambor de Crioula, and the June festivities, which are celebrated with lots of music, dancing and folk traditions.

CONNECTION BETWEEN MODERN AND HISTORIC PART (HISTORIC CENTRE)

• Transport: The city has a public transport network that makes it easy to get between the historic and modern parts, including buses and taxi services.
• Events and Festivities: Many cultural events and festivities begin or have components in both the historic and modern parts, promoting an integration of the two areas.

This division between the historic part and the modern part provides visitors with an opportunity to experience São Luís past and present, making it a city rich in contrasts and full of diverse experiences.

TOURIST POINTS IN THE HISTORIC CENTRE OF SÃO LUÍS

The architecture is the highlight of this tour. In fact, these façades ended up inspiring architects in Lisbon in the 18th century.

Contrary to popular belief, the Portuguese living in Brazil first decorated the façades of their houses with azulejos and only later did the trend spread to Portugal.

The technique of using ceramic tiles on façades had a function beyond aesthetics: it served to minimise internal heat by reflecting sunlight. There are 150 different models of Portuguese tiles alone, most of them blue and white.

The common features of the mansions are ceramic tiles and iron balconies. Huge windows and doors signalled the economic prosperity of cotton in the 18th century.

Generally, the merchants used the first floor to set up their businesses and lived with their families on the upper floor.

A while later came decay and deterioration, which only saw the prospect of improvement with the restoration process that began in the late 70s. However, the path to restoring them all is still undefined.

The walk usually starts at Praça Dom Pedro II, goes down the Catarina Mina staircase and ends at Rua Portugal, in Praia Grande.

Further on, stop off at Largo do Comércio for the bars and Casa das Tulhas, the place to sample and buy typical products.

If you’re on your own, when you reach Rua da Paz, head to Praça João Lisboa and from there to Rua do Sol, where you’ll find the Arthur de Azevedo Theatre.

This is an attraction with a guided tour and shows.

Straight ahead is Rua do Ribeirão, which leads to the Ribeirão Fountain and its legends.

The Ribeirão Fountain (1796), with Christian and pagan symbols, was used to supply the city and still inspires legends and popular beliefs today.

Among them is the legend of the sleeping snake that keeps growing in the underground tunnels of São Luís.

One day it will grow so big that its head will meet its arse and, when it does, it will wake up in a rage, spewing fire until it sinks the city.

Obviously, these stories were encouraged by the city’s powerful people to avoid curious people going underground, where they used to use it as a secret passage. The underground tunnels are said to connect the main churches of São Luís.

1. SÃO LUÍS BUILDING

The large, three-storey corner manor house is considered to be the largest colonial tile-covered building in the country. Built in the 19th century, its interior was completely destroyed by fire in 1969.

In 1976, Caixa Econômica Federal restored the building and set up a branch on its premises. R. de Nazaré, corner with Rua do Egito.

2. PORTUGAL STREET

The two blocks full of tiled colonial buildings, bars and cafés make up the bohemian centre of São Luís.

Rua Portugal, in São Luís, is the urban portrait of the 19th century, with townhouses with façades adorned with Portuguese tiles.

It gets even busier on Thursdays, when the street organises the Dia de Festa (Party Day) event, a night of great music in a variety of styles. When they perform in the city, MPB stars often stop by.

3. CASA DO MARANHÃO

Housed in the former Customs House, a building dating from 1873, Casa do Maranhão exhibits objects related to the various manifestations of bumba-meu-boi.

On the ground floor, a shop sells souvenirs, while a big screen shows records of past festivals and TV sets show landscapes of the state.

The top floor has a room dedicated to each rhythm – or accent, as the Maranhenses say – that the bumba-meu-boi takes on: instruments, costumes, etc.

There is also a room explaining the legend that gave rise to the tradition, one for rehearsals and another where people are taught how to make the costumes used in the festivities. The full tour takes about an hour. R. do Trapiche, s/n, Praia Grande.

4. NHOZINHO’S HOUSE

In this three-storey house, with eaves covered in French tiles, visitors can learn about the way of life of both the Maranhão people who live inland and those who live on the coast.

On the first floor, a room displays objects used in farming, especially cotton – wooden pestles, seed grinders and looms – and products resulting from their use, such as quilts and rugs; another room houses items related to the coast, such as fishing traps and a canoe carved out of a single log.

The second floor houses the space for the craftsman who gave the place its name, Antonio Bruno Pinto Nogueira (1904-74), known as Nhozinho, who was born in Curupu and made a name for himself making toys.

On the top floor, the indigenous room highlights material from eight ethnic groups that still live in the interior of Maranhão.

Outside, there are life-size replicas of houses that are common in the state, such as carnauba and mud houses. Guided tours. R. Portugal, 185, Praia Grande.

Meet the History of Casa de Nhozinho in São Luís do Maranhão 

5. DOMINGOS VIEIRA FILHO CENTRE OF POPULAR CULTURE

Known as Casa da Festa, the space that honours the folklorist from Maranhão brings together material on popular rites and folklore.

On the first floor, where pieces representing religious practice in the state are exhibited, the highlight is the wing that presents the Casa das Minas – a terreiro founded in the 19th century to practise the tambor-de-mina, a cult of African origin similar to Bahian candomblé.

On the second floor you’ll find records of the Festa do Divino (Divine Festival) – with an emphasis on Alcântara – and a space dedicated to another popular Afi-Brazilian festival, the tambor-de-crioula.

The third floor houses the Christmas-related pieces. There are guided tours with bilingual guides. R. do Giz, 205, Praia Grande.

6. CONVENTO DAS MERCÊS

It was Father Antônio Vieira who inaugurated this building in 1654 to house the order of the Mercedarians, of Spanish origin.

Today it is home to the Republican Memory Foundation, comprising the José Sarney Memorial – with documents and objects from the former president – the Model Centre for Research into Republican History, the Latin American Friendship Institute and the Friendship Institute for Portuguese-Speaking Peoples. R. da Palma, 506, Centre.

7. CATEDRAL DA SÉ

The church of Our Lady of Victory was built by Jesuits, probably with indigenous labour, and inaugurated in 1699. A succession of renovations transformed the original design: the current façade dates from 1922; the chancel ceiling was painted in the 1950s by João de Deus.

The altarpiece of the high altar, however, is a magnificent example of Baroque and worth a visit: the elaborate gilded woodwork, dating from the end of the 18th century, is considered by experts to be the best in the city. Listed by Iphan in 1954, the altarpiece was restored in the 1990s. Av. D. Pedro II, s/n, Historic Centre.

8. and 9. OTHER CHURCHES

Present in Maranhão since the foundation of São Luís, Jesuits and other religious orders have built churches of great beauty in the city.

The church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo (pҫa. João Lisboa, 350, Centre) began to be built in 1627. It was sacked by the Dutch in 1641 and in 1894 passed into the hands of the Capuchins.

Its extraordinary façade and main door have been preserved and remain faithful to the original design.

It is believed that the Igreja do Desterro stands exactly on the site of the city’s first church, which was destroyed during the Dutch invasion.

In 1893, residents collected donations and built it. In October 2007 it was closed for renovation (pҫa. Do Desterro, s/n, Praia Grande).

10 and 11. SOURCES

Built in 1796, the Ribeirão fountain (Fonte do Ribeirão, s/n, Historic Centre) has five streams of water coming out of the mouths of frowning figures and sculptures representing fish and gods; in front is a courtyard lined with stonework.

The water from the Ribeirão fountain comes from a spring that used to supply many houses in the centre and the ships docked in São Luís.

Its underground galleries cut through the historic centre of São Luís.

According to legend, under one of them sleeps a gigantic snake that will swallow the city the day it wakes up.

Even older – it was inaugurated in 1640, taking advantage of the springs that had supplied the Portuguese troops during the fight against the French – the poorly preserved Pedras Fountain (Rua de São João, s/n, Historic Centre), surrounded by a walled square, has imposing stone fountains from which water gushes.

12. ARTHUR DE AZEVEDO THEATRE

The idea of creating the Arthur de Azevedo Theatre came about in 1815 on the initiative of two Portuguese merchants, Eleutério Lopes da Silva Varela and Estevão Gonçalves Braga.

This was the golden age of the cotton cycle, when Maranhão was getting rich from the export of this product and the city needed more cultural life.

Construction began in 1816 and on 1 July 1817, after a year’s work, it was inaugurated.

It was initially called the Union Theatre, in honour of the creation of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves (1815), the result of the Portuguese royal family coming to Brazil.

This was the fourth theatre in the history of São Luís, but it stood out for its comfort and size, with a capacity for 800 spectators. Its neoclassical style was also a novelty for the time.

In 1852 it was renamed the São Luiz Theatre and in the 1920s it was renamed in honour of the great Maranhão playwright Artur de Azevedo (1855-1908).

In the 20th century, the theatre was disfigured and became a cinema, but it is now restored and fully operational.

13. PALACE OF THE LIONS

14. La Ravardière Palace

The Palais de La Ravardière is the seat of city hall in São Luís do Maranhão, Brazil. Dating back to the 17th century, it is an important landmark of the city’s historic centre, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

The São Luís Town Hall and Jail were built on the site around 1689, but the current palace is the result of several later renovations. The building has a symmetrical façade, decorated in the centre by a small pediment made of stucco.

The windows on the first floor have curved lintels, while those on the second floor have straight lintels with stucco decoration and balconies. Inside there is an elegant staircase leading to the second floor.

The Palace is named in honour of Daniel de la Touche, lord of La Ravardière, who was considered the founder of the city in 1612. In front of the building is a bronze bust of the French captain, sculpted by Antão Bibiano Silva.

It is located on Avenida D. Pedro II, next to the Palácio dos Leões, the seat of the state government.

15. CULTURAL CENTRES

European films, theatre classes and art workshops. These are some of the attractions at the Odylo Costa Filho Creativity Centre, a cultural space frequented by São Luís residents.

It is also home to the Ferreira Gullar Reading Room (rampa do Colégio, 200, Praia Grande).

The Casa de Cultura Josué Montello caters for the general public and researchers in particular, in the fields of literature, history and the performing arts (327 r. das Hortas, Centro).

16. HISTORICAL AND ARTISTIC MUSEUM OF MARANHÃO

Dating back to 1836, the Gomes de Sousa manor house was transformed into the Historical and Artistic Museum of Maranhão in 1973.

Furniture, porcelain and crystals reconstitute the characteristic residential environments of the state in the 19th century. R. do Sol, 302, Centre.

More Information MUSEU HISTÓRICO E ARTÍSTICO DO MARANHÃO

17. MUSEUM OF SACRED ART

The Museum of Sacred Art, housed in a colonial manor house on Rua de São João, has a valuable collection of imaginary and jewellery pieces that tell the story of the Church in Maranhão.

The collection, which partly belongs to the Archdiocese of São Luís, is made up of pieces from the 18th and 19th centuries in Mannerist, Rococo and Neoclassical styles. It includes everything from sculptures to objects used in religious celebrations, such as chalices and crucifixes.

18. SOLAR DOS VASCONCELOS HISTORICAL CENTRE

The mansion houses an exhibition of photos and objects that show the transformations that the Historic Centre has undergone. It also has a collection of models and miniatures of typical boats used by the people of Maranhão.

A permanent exhibition of models displays some of the boat models used by the people of Maranhão. R. da Estrela, 562, Praia Grande.

19. MUSEUM OF VISUAL ARTS

A visit to the Museum of Visual Arts is worth a lesson in European tiles, which have a strong presence in the capital of Maranhão.

Most of the tiles on display on the first floor, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, are blue and white in colour and come from Portugal.

But there are also tiles from France, Germany and England. On the second and third floors are works by artists from Maranhão and beyond, such as Cícero Dias, Tarsila do Amaral and Alfredo Volpi.

The third floor offers a beautiful view of the historic centre, São Marcos Bay and the Praia Grande Market. R. Portugal, 273, Praia Grande.

20. CAFUA DAS MERCÊS

The site of the city’s former slave market has been transformed into the Museu do Negro (Black Museum), which aims to preserve Afro-Brazilian memory and culture.

Its collection includes images, musical instruments, clothes and items used in festive or religious rituals. In the inner courtyard of the sobrado there is a replica of a pillory. R. Jacinto IHaia, s/n, Desterro.

21. and 22. PRAIA GRANDE MARKET AND CRAFT CENTRE

Throughout the old part of the city, tourists come across shops selling typical Maranhão products, especially drinks, sweets and handicrafts.

One such place is the Praia Grande Market (Rua da Estrela, s/n, Historic Centre), built in 1820 and housed within the Casa das Tulhas complex.

Here you’ll find tiquira – manioc cachaça – and all kinds of grains and spices, which give it an unmistakable perfume; old men meet there to play cards and dominoes. On Friday nights, the market is packed with visitors.

Another spot is the Ceprama Handicrafts Centre, which sells painted tiles, lace, wood and fibre pieces produced all over the state (1232 Rua São Pantaleão, Madre de Deus).

23. History of João Lisboa Square in São Luís do Maranhão

24. Research Centre for Natural History and Archaeology in Maranhão

25. Rua do Giz in São Luís do Maranhão – History and Architecture

26. Church of São José do Desterro in São Luís do Maranhão – History

27. Cine Éden in São Luís do Maranhão

MARANHENSE CULTURE

1. RELIGIOSITY

Maranhão’s religiosity is marked by syncretism, mixing Catholic beliefs with Afro-Brazilian and indigenous practices. Religious festivals, such as the Divine Holy Spirit Festival, are important cultural and social events.

These elements make up a diverse and rich panorama of Maranhão culture, which is unique and has its own identity within the Brazilian cultural scene.

2. AFRO-BRAZILIAN CULTURES

After Bahia, Maranhão is the Brazilian state in which religions of African origin have the greatest representation.

One of its strongest manifestations is the tambor-de-mina, in many ways similar to the candomblé of Bahia and the xangô of Pernambuco, but based on a particular mythology.

The rites and music vary from one terreiro to another, but are always marked by the trance of the participants, who appear to be incorporated by supernatural entities.

The orixás, related to nature, take on the traits of characters known to the people of Maranhão, such as King Sebastião, a resident of the island of Lençóis, who is said to have built a castle at the bottom of the sea for his beloved, Princess Ina.

The largest and most traditional terreiro is Casa das Minas (Rua de São Pantaleão, 857, Centro), built in the 19th century. There is also the Casa Fanti-Ashanti (Rua Militar, 1158, Cruzeiro do Anil).

3. BUMBA-MEU-BOI

Maranhão is the state that most enthusiastically celebrates bumba-meu-boi.

The tradition, linked to the June festivities and whose origins go back to the games played by slaves who worked in the cattle industry, mixes African, Portuguese and indigenous influences and fuses theatre, music and dance in the same rite.

It all begins with the story of Catirina, a farm slave who, when pregnant, wants to eat an ox’s tongue – but not just any ox, but her master’s favourite.

To do this, Catirina summons her husband – Father Francisco, or Nego Chico, or Preto Velho – to kill the animal and bring her the delicacy.

The man obeys; discovered by his boss, he is ordered to resurrect the ox if he doesn’t want to die. A shaman helps him in the endeavour: “Get up, ox; dance, ox,” he calls out. The animal finally rises and dances off.

Preparations for the festival begin in January, but rehearsals take place in May.

On 23 June, the eve of São João, the ox is baptised by a priest – outside the church. The presentation of its hide to the community – decorated with velvet, satin, beads and sequins – is the starting point for the dances.

The game has various “accents”, i.e. rhythms – such as matraca (with an indigenous influence), zabumba (in which African traits predominate) and orchestra (with a European influence).

Other important folkloric manifestations in the state include the Divino Espírito Santo festival, the tambor-de-crioula, the coconut dance, the stone dance and the São-gonçalo dance.

4. REGGAE AND RADIOLAS

In the mid-1970s, Jamaican reggae arrived in the capital of Maranhão to stay.

As well as being a constant presence on radio and TV programmes, the rhythm permeates everyday life in the city, mainly thanks to the radiolas – sort of travelling DJ studios, whose huge equipment spreads the sound of Bob Marley, Peter Tosh and other classics of the genre.

In 2005, more than fifty radiolas enlivened São Luís with the “stones”, i.e. the good reggae songs of the 1970s.

To supply their repertoires, the radiola owners commission recordings from Brazilian singers, who go by the names Dub Brown, Henry Murvin and Ronnie Green.

Maranhão exports Célia Sampaio and the band Tribo de Jah to the international scene, among others.

The radio stations sell CD’s, but if the idea is to dance to the rhythm outside the house – either alone, like the Jamaican idols, or in the forró style favoured by the people of Maranhão – there are plenty of options: the Roots Bar brings together the most authentic “regueiros” and the best dancers (Rua da Palma, 85, Centro).

Nelson’s Bar is frequented by the city’s middle and upper classes (av. Litorânea, s/n, Calhau beach).

Bar do Porto is a favourite with tourists (Rua do Trapiche, Centro Histórico).

Bar do Léo, which plays Brazilian reggae music as well as Maranhão artists Zeca Baleiro and Rita Ribeiro (Mercado de Vinhaes, s/n, Centro).

Tourism and Travel Guide to São Luís do Maranhão in the Northeast