History of the Forts and Lighthouses of Salvador

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Fortes e faróis em Salvador da Bahia
Forts and lighthouses in Salvador de Bahia

The construction of forts and lighthouses was motivated by the need to protect the city of Salvador and guarantee Portuguese sovereignty over the discovered territory.

The choice of location for the city of Salvador also took religious aspects into account. As was said at the time, ‘the higher you built a city, the closer you would be to God and his protection’.

Strategically, the choice of the high mountain proved to be convenient for the military model then dominant in Portugal, since the plateau was located in the inner part of the Bay of All Saints, an excellent anchorage for ships.

Mapa dos Fortes de Salvador da Bahia
Map of the Forts of Salvador da Bahia

Based on this spatial configuration, a defence structure was set up in the most strategic locations. Anyone who knows Salvador must admit that the choice was the right one. Where could one build better forts than those already built? Perhaps one on Itaparica Island, outside Salvador!

As the city grew beyond the original walls, this system proved to be weak and ineffective. So much so that the Dutch and French bombarded it and took it with great ease.

However, this weakness and ineffectiveness was not due to the location of the forts, which we consider to be perfect. The problem lay in the extent of the access from the sea, which was open and vast, making an adequate defence difficult due to the low firepower of the fortifications.

Ponta do Humaitá is one of the most beautiful spots in Salvador. Ships coming from the south, for example, passing close to Itaparica Island, were totally immune to the batteries of Salvador’s forts.

Let’s take a look at a summary of the interview given to the press by Colonel Anésio Ferreira Leite, President of the Brazilian Association of Friends of Military Fortifications and Historic Sites (ABRAF):

‘Salvador once had more than 30 fortifications. Today there are only 11 left. We are throwing away our references and our roots.’

The first fort built was the Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra in 1534, also known as the Barra Lighthouse. In 1696, when it received a lighthouse, it was renamed Vigia da Barra.

In 1650, the Fort of São Marcelo was built, also known as Forte do Mar.

Still in Barra, there are the Santa Maria and São Diogo forts, built between 1624 and 1638. Going up to Campo Grande, there are the São Pedro and São Paulo da Gamboa forts, both built by the Dutch. The São Paulo da Gamboa Fort had the largest cannon in the city, weighing 13 tonnes. This equipment was moved to the front of the 6th Military Region headquarters in Mouraria.

At the entrance to the São Joaquim Maritime Terminal is Forte Santo Alberto or Forte da Lagartixa, so called because it had small cannons that could be moved all over the place.

The Santo Antônio Além do Carmo Fort is located in the Santo Antônio neighbourhood. Why ‘Além do Carmo’? Everything built after the north gate was known as ‘Além do Carmo’. The largest fortification in Salvador is the Forte de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo, or simply Forte do Barbalho.

Videos about the Forts and Lighthouses of Salvador da Bahia

History of the Forts of Salvador de Bahia

The city of Salvador was born under the sign of defence, as the main objective of the Portuguese colonisation was to ensure sovereignty over the discovered territory.

Forts were the main elements of the defence system in Brazil’s colonial capital. The old trenches, bastions and towers, which occupied strategic defence sites, were given walls and cannon batteries.

Some projects were the brainchild of the Portuguese military, while others were designed by military engineers from Italian and French schools, hired by the colonial government. These projects took advantage of the natural conditions of the terrain, not only for defence needs, but also for architectural plasticity.

When the first Governor-General, Tomé de Souza, arrived in the old town of Porto da Barra in 1549, the site for the headquarters of the Portuguese colonial administration had already been chosen. Following orders from King João III, Tomé de Souza built the fortress town on the highest and most protected site, surrounded by almost impassable marshes and overlooking the entire Bay of All Saints.

The Portuguese began setting up a defence system that would evolve until the 18th century. The first military defence built was a large rampart made of mud and mud, sufficient to withstand the arrows of the Indians.

Later, the wall was extended and reinforced with stone and lime, adding bastions facing the sea (which was where the corsairs approached) and towers on the gates facing São Bento and Carmo.

In the 17th century, the old wall was replaced by an efficient system of defence in depth, with trenches, ramparts and fortifications built in strategic places and armed according to the evolution of the art of war.

At the beginning of the 17th century, the threat of a major foreign invasion led to an increase in the number of fortified positions in Salvador. The line of defence, formed by the Forts of Santo Antônio da Barra, do Mar (today São Marcelo), Santo Alberto, Nossa Senhora do Mont Serrat and Itapagipe, as well as the battery of fortifications at Ribeira das Naus, was already structured enough to impress the invaders.

In 1624, this defence system organised a heroic resistance against the Dutch, but was defeated by the great superiority of the enemy.

With the reconquest of Salvador by the Portuguese and Spanish a year later, the defence system was revived and new forts were built, while others were restored and expanded. This allowed the city to repel, in 1638, a new attack by the powerful Dutch armada under the command of Prince Maurice of Nassau (who had already taken Recife). This victory shattered the myth of Dutch invincibility and gave rise to the mystique of the Indomitable Saviour.

1. Chronology of the Construction of the Forts of Salvador

From the End of the 16th Century to the Dutch Invasion

  • The Tower of St. Albert
  • Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra
  • Monserrate Fort
  • Lizard Fort

The Fortifications After 1625

  • The Defenses of Porto da Barra – Forts of Santa Maria and São Diogo
  • The Fort of the Sea or Our Lady of Pópulo and St. Marcellus

The Fortresses of the 18th Century

  • Forte de São Pedro
  • Bateria de São Paulo da Gamboa
  • Forte de Santo Antônio
  • Além-do-Carmo
  • Forte do Barbalho
  • Jiquitaia Fort
  • Disappearing Chandeliers

2. Forts and Lighthouses of Salvador de Bahia

2.1. Barra Lighthouse or Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra

Barra Beach, Oceanic Avenue

História do Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra em Salvador

The Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra, popularly known as Farol da Barra, is located at the tip of the border between the Atlantic coast and the inlet of Todos os Santos Bay (formerly Ponta do Padrão). The fort offers a beautiful view of the ocean and it’s impossible not to be impressed by its grandeur and elegance.

Farol da Barra - Salvador da Bahia
Farol da Barra – Salvador da Bahia

This is the oldest military building in Brazil, dating back to 1534. The original lighthouse was installed in 1698, at a height of 37 metres above sea level, and was the first lighthouse in the Americas.

Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the fort was given the irregular shape of a star, with four recessed faces and six protruding ones, representing the new line of Portuguese military architecture. Whale oil fuelled the lamps that signalled the entrance to the bay to sailors.

Farol da Barra ou Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra
Farol da Barra ou Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra

The lighthouse underwent renovations in 1839, 1890 and 1937, when it was electrified and the paraffin incandescent installation was removed. Today, the luminous range is 70 kilometres for the white light and 63 kilometres for the red light.

An interesting curiosity is that, due to the strong Catholic inclination in Brazil, the fort adopted St Anthony as the first patron saint of Salvador, granting the image of the saint a military rank in the rank of soldier. The saint, or rather his image, received promotions and corresponding salaries for centuries, and only had his pay cancelled in 1912, when he held the rank of lieutenant colonel.

The Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra is one of the landmarks on the coast of Salvador and the main postcard of Praia da Barra. Built between 1583 and 1587, it is part of the Santo Antônio da Barra Fort and houses the Bahia Nautical Museum.

In 1501, during the first exploratory expedition to Lusitanian America, the Portuguese landed in Barra, negotiated with the Indians and installed their standard of possession there. It was All Saints ‘ Day and they baptised the large bay with that name. This spot, which marks the entrance to Todos os Santos Bay, became known as Ponta do Padrão and, later, Ponta de Santo Antônio.

The Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra, the first in Brazil, was first built around 1536 by the donatory of the Captaincy of Bahia, Francisco Pereira Coutinho. Between 1583 and 1587, it was remodelled and enlarged. Between 1596 and 1602, the fort was rebuilt in stone and mortar as an octagonal tower, a project attributed to the Portuguese chief engineer, Leonardo Torriani from Cremona.

Farol da Barra Visto do Mar (1928)
Farol da Barra Visto do Mar (1928)

As well as the lighthouse, the fort houses the Bahia Nautical Museum and a café. Climbing the lighthouse tower, which has a leisurely 94 steps, is a pleasant experience. The top offers panoramic views of Barra and the sea and allows you to see the lighthouse’s century-old lighting system up close.

Wreck of the galleon Santíssimo Sacramento that caused the FAROL DA BARRA to be built

Naufrágio do galeão Santíssimo Sacramento em 1668

The galleon Santíssimo Sacramento had left the Tagus as captain of the escort for a fleet of 50 merchant vessels belonging to the Companhia Geral do Comércio do Brasil. The ship was carrying João Corrêa da Silva, who was about to be sworn in as governor of Bahia, as well as tin and copper for the Salvador shipyard. However, the galleon sank during a storm on 5 May 1668.

As it approached Salvador, the galleon encountered strong winds from the south, which prevented it from entering Bahia by the normal route. The ship ended up crashing into the Santo Antônio bank, remaining adrift for a few hours and sinking during the night at around 11pm.

As soon as he was informed of the accident, the acting governor, Alexandre de Sousa Freire, sent all the fast boats and skilful navigators that were in Ribeira. However, due to the great distance to be travelled at the time, they only arrived at the scene at dawn.

As described by Sebastião Rocha Pita in ‘História da América Portuguesa’ (History of Portuguese America) (Lisbon, 1730):

‘They found the ship torn to pieces, and a large number of bodies, some still alive, wandering the seas, others already lying dead on the sands…, and only a few people saved their lives, to whom he put his fortune and the diligence of the fishermen of those beaches…, and a few who on the piously shattered planks in their remedy put themselves ashore.’

There is disagreement about the number of people on board the Sacramento; some quote 800, others 400. It is known that only around 70 people were saved.

After being submerged for three centuries, the galleon’s hull was located by fishermen who noticed that their nets were stuck to the bottom. What was left of the Sacramento lay at a depth of 15 metres, next to a steep slope. The hull later slid down this slope, ending up at a depth of between 25 and 30 metres.

See also History of the Foundation of Salvador da BahiaHistorical Center of Salvador

and History of Santo Antônio da Barra Fort in Salvador

2.2. Itapuã Lighthouse

Striped in red and black, the lighthouse that inspires verse and song. A former reference point for boats passing along the coast, today it is a poetic and bucolic landmark for anyone wishing to spend an afternoon in Itapuã.

Itapuã Lighthouse - Salvador da Bahia
Itapuã Lighthouse – Salvador da Bahia

Built in 1873 by engineer Zózimo Barroso with his own resources, the lighthouse was designed to signal the sandbanks in the area and guide maritime navigation in Salvador. This lighthouse is located 23 kilometres away from the Barra Lighthouse.

Its tower, made of cast iron, is 21 metres high and sits on a concrete base. It is connected to the beach by a bridge, also made of concrete.

Originally painted earthy purple, since 1950 the lighthouse has kept its horizontal stripes painted red and white.

2.3. Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat Fort or Monserrate

Ponta de Humaitá

História do Forte de Nossa Senhora de Monte Serrat

Built in a cove on the then northern edge of Salvador, between 1583 and 1587, the Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat Fort succeeded the primitive Fort of St. Philip, shaped like an irregular hexagon with circular turrets at the angles, covered by domes. A drawbridge between the ramp and the terrace configured the primitive fort, and on the first floor, two barracks surrounded the entrance.

 Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat Fort - Salvador da Bahia
Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat Fort – Salvador da Bahia

In May 1624, the fort took part in the confrontations during the invasion of Bahia and prevented the Dutch from landing, but was eventually taken by the enemy in a new attack on the city. The Governor-General, Diogo de Mendonça Furtado, was imprisoned and the capital of the State of Brazil was conquered by the Dutch nobleman Johan Van Dorth. In front of the fort, there is a plaque reminding visitors: ‘On 17 July / 1624 the Dutch gene / ral / João van Dorth was / killed on this / site’.

The Monte Serrat Fort has significant historical importance, with indirect participation in the Sabinada and the Christie Question in the 19th century. There are records that, in 1859, the fort was visited by Emperor Pedro II of Brazil, who wrote in his travel diary: ‘28 October (…) I went to the fort of Monserrate which lies abandoned, the inscription on the gate having been chopped off. It has a beautiful view and [engineer André] Przewodowski, who lives nearby, said that nobody has died there yet of yellow fever or cholera.’

Forte Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat em Salvador BA
Forte Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat em Salvador BA
Forte Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat em Salvador BA
 Forte Nossa Senhora de Mont Serrat em Salvador BA

The fort is considered one of Salvador’s special treasures, an example of bastioned military architecture (also known as ‘Italian layout’, ‘star fortification’ or ‘modern-style fortification’), being the oldest Brazilian fortification with an original configuration and one of the best military works of Colonial Brazil.

With simple installations, the fort displays various paintings about the Salvador Defence System, the Dutch invasion of Bahia, historic Brazilian flags and more. It’s a real historical treat.

The fort began to be built in 1583 and, until its completion in 1742, was the scene of struggles and resistance against the Dutch. Today, it houses the Armada Museum, with various military objects and armaments. The view of Todos os Santos Bay and Itaparica Island is a chapter in itself.

The Fort of Nossa Senhora de Monte Serrat, which belonged to the Army, is seen by many as the most beautiful military construction of the Brazilian colonial period. It began to be built in 1583, in a strategic position at the top of the most advanced point of the peninsula, overlooking the city’s harbour. Completed in 1742, the fort remains as a command house flanked by round bastioned walls with nine cannons.

Since 1993, it has housed the Armada Museum, with civilian and military armaments, some of which were used by the army in the past. The view from the entrance to Todos os Santos Bay is privileged, offering a view of the city of Salvador on one side and Itaparica Island on the other.

History of the Fort of Nossa Senhora de Monserrate

2.4. Fort Santa Maria

Porto da Barra Beach

The Fort of Santa Maria, with its Italian architecture, was built before the Dutch invasion and is one of the oldest architectural constructions in the city. The cannons are still there, aiming at possible invaders from the sea. The building also houses an old gunpowder room.

 

Fort Santa Maria - Salvador da Bahia
Fort Santa Maria – Salvador da Bahia

The fort began to be built in 1614, to the design of Francisco de Frias da Mesquita (1578 – 1645), the chief engineer and head of fortification works in Brazil. It was rebuilt in 1696 in stone and lime masonry, to a design attributed to engineer José Pais Esteve. The fort’s current basic structure dates from that time.

Its façade still displays the emblem of the Brazilian Empire. It was listed by IPHAN in 1938 and is administered by the Navy. Since May 2016, it has been home to the Pierre Verger Space for Bahian Photography.

Today, as well as housing the Pierre Verger Space, the Santa Maria Fort has an open span, allowing you to appreciate other angles of the Bay of All Saints. Small, delicate and graceful, this is one of Salvador’s many priceless treasures.

Forte de Santa Maria em Salvador BA
Forte de Santa Maria em Salvador BA
Video about the Fort of Santa Maria that expelled the Dutch from Brazil

2.5. São Diogo Fort

The São Diogo Fort, located at the base of the Morro de Santo Antônio, was built in the context of the weakness of Salvador’s defence during the Dutch invasion of 1624. At the time, Portugal and, consequently, Brazil, were under the rule of Spain (the so-called Iberian Union). Felipe IV, King of Spain and personal enemy of the Dutch, mobilised a huge war flotilla that managed to retake the city a year later.

Forte São Diogo - Salvador da Bahia
Forte São Diogo – Salvador da Bahia

The Dutch, undeterred, carried out successive attacks in an attempt to retake the city. To prevent this, Spain implemented a defence system, providing Salvador with fortifications distributed along the Bay of All Saints, Barra and Itapagipe. In a short time, dozens of forts formed a veritable cordon of fire, making Salvador the most protected city in the Americas. After these forts were built, the city was never invaded again.

The São Diogo Fort arose precisely in this context. It was built between 1626 and 1635, after the expulsion of the Dutch invaders (1624-1625). Its position on the ground and the battery of cannons inhibited further foreign incursions into Porto da Barra in 1638, and it was integrated into the defence system alongside the Fort of Santa Maria. Its current curvilinear layout was developed at the beginning of the 18th century.

Forte de São Diogo em Salvador BA
Forte de São Diogo em Salvador BA

The original São Diogo Fort was built between 1609 and 1613 on the slopes of Morro de Santo Antônio, on top of the old structure of the castle belonging to Pereira Coutinho, the captaincy’s grantee. The original project is attributed to the chief engineer Francisco de Frias da Mesquita (1578-1645).

Forte de São Diogo em Salvador BA
Forte de São Diogo em Salvador BA

From 1626, the fort was rebuilt and underwent alterations between 1704 and 1722, when it acquired its current basic structure. Further renovations took place at the end of the 19th century.

Since May 2016, the fort has been home to the Carybé Arts Space and is now an important cultural centre in Salvador.

2.6. São Marcelo Fort

Inspired by Castel Sant’Angelo (Italy) and Torre do Bugio (Portugal), Forte de São Marcelo, also known as Forte do Mar (formerly Forte de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo), is situated on a crown of sand 300 metres from the shore of Todos os Santos Bay, opposite the heart of Salvador’s historic centre.

Forte de São Marcelo - Salvador da bahia
Forte de São Marcelo – Salvador da bahia

With its circular shape and Renaissance style, its original wooden construction was completed in 1623 and covers an area of 2,500 m². For security reasons, the fort limits access to 300 people at a time.

The Fort of São Marcelo has been the scene of several historical confrontations. In 1912, during a truculent action by then President Hermes da Fonseca, the Fort fired its cannons at the very city it was supposed to protect, resulting in the tragic Bombardment of Salvador. The attack caused the destruction of the Governors’ Palace, the São João Theatre, the old Primatial Cathedral and the Public Library.

Being a relatively ‘newer’ structure, the fort displays the imperial coat of arms mutilated by the Republic over the Gate of Arms. Because of its location, beauty and originality, Jorge Amado called it ‘Bahia’s navel’.

Originally built of wood on a reef, the Fort underwent renovations after the Dutch invasion, transforming it into a solid protective fortress for the city centre. Today, it is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 6pm.

Forte de São Marcelo
Forte de São Marcelo

Located in the middle of Todos-os-Santos Bay, São Marcelo Fort was originally a triangular bastion, built of wood at the beginning of the 17th century on a reef at the entrance to Salvador’s harbour. After the Dutch invasion of 1624, the fort was rebuilt in stone masonry and took on its circular shape to protect the centre of the colonial city from sea attacks.

The fort became an imposing military construction, responsible for guarding the harbour and forming part of the network of fortifications that defended Salvador from Dutch invasions, privateers and pirates. At the end of the 18th century, it served as a prison for students and important historical figures, such as the leader of the Revolt of the Tailors, Cipriano Barata, and the Farroupilha general Bento Gonçalves.

Map of the entrance of São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos
This is a Dutch map published in the city of Amsterdam in 1624. Titled: “Shows the invasion of Salvador da Bahia by the Bay of All Saints.”

The Fort of São Marcelo is located opposite the pier and the Mercado Modelo. The city map highlights the entrance to the City of São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos, with legends of the main buildings and fortifications, including the Fort of Santo Antônio da Barra, which is the only building with a direct designation on the map.

See History of Forte de São Marcelo or Forte do Mar in Salvador

History of the Fortresses and Defences of Salvador da Bahia

2.7. Santo Alberto Fort, São Tiago Tower or Fortim da Lagartixa

The Santo Alberto Fort has its origins in the old Tower of São Tiago, and its current building dates back to 1694.

With the Brazilian victory in the War of Independence (1822-1823), the Fort of Santo Alberto played a significant historical role by firing the shot that authorised the forces to embark for Portugal on 2 July 1823.

Removed from the sea due to the expansion of Salvador’s harbour, the fort was used after World War II to house the Army Veterinary Service.

Forte de Santo Alberto, Torre de São Tiago ou Fortim da Lagartixa
Forte de Santo Alberto, Torre de São Tiago ou Fortim da Lagartixa

Contemporary to the Fort of Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, the Fort of Santo Alberto had the function of protecting the anchorage and the watering hole for boats in the Água de Meninos area.

Today, located opposite the Ferry-Boat entrance, the Santo Alberto Fort is almost an illustrious unknown in Salvador. It is closed and overrun by cars, living in a state of relative ostracism.

Bahia.ws is the largest tourist guide to Bahia and Salvador.

History of the forts and lighthouses of Salvador de Bahia

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